Hi all,

Has anyone filled in their PG1 gearbox mount using a two part compound to stiffen it up a bit? I'm sure its been done but a quick search didn't show any pictures??

I think you can only do this with the gearbox mount, not the one on the engine block?

If anyone has any info they could pass on I'd be grateful.

Cheers, Jamie

Ricahrd Olafsson did this, as did many other TeamGTM people - see http://www.ricola.co.uk/

Thread on TGTM http://www.teamgtm.com/node/11629

Got mine done a bit back but other people have done there own.
post17540.html#p17540
Matty

Thanks chaps.

I bought the pu liquid & done mine myself. Never done it before so didn't look too pretty but did the job well enough.

My pics seem to have disappeared from the link Matty posted & I can't seem to add them to this post either!! It tells me the file type is Invalid but I've uploaded this type before

Try again another way (via photobucket)

Same here.
http://www.sidewinderforge.co.uk/netlib ... mlb12.html

SAS

Thanks chaps. Looks like I need to get myself some A70.

Any idea how much I'll need? 500ml enough?

From reading the various threads it seems that this stuff is quite good - http://www.mbfg.co.uk/polyurethane-rubb ... ubber.html

Yes thats what i bought. Got the smallest ones -500g
& only used about half of it.

Thanks Sven. 500ml it is.

That's the stuff I used

They're based near my parents in Northern Ireland so I'm going to pick some up when I'm there in a couple of weeks - handy.

Just ordered some of this casting rubber to do my gearbox mount. Has anyone tried filling the gap between the outside of the original rubber/frame and the square hole the whole thing fits in? to do so would mean somehow shuttering it and pouring insitu but I like a challenge! I'm thinking taping around the inside first will allow it to come out again if I ever need to.

As on my other "clunk" post, should what's left of the original rubber be removed first?

Well, I tried the in-situ option. Not entirely successful but seems to have done the trick. Shuttering the outside face was easy enough and I decided to space it off slightly to give a gap at the top to pour into and that would also completely surround the solid end of the mount in the rubber. I had some stiffish packaging foam about 8mm thick that I cut to size and squashed down to about 6mm to clamp it on and give a good seal at the bottom and both sides.

Obviously much harder on the inside face with the gearbox mount still bolted on but as the inside metal part sticks out quite a long way I hadn't intended to cast rubber right to the mounting face so I was going to need to cut round it. I made a U shape board with a carefully sized central slot (cardboard first and then 6mm ply). My attempt at sealing the missing bit above the mount really didn't work too well though!

The other issue I had was that in my haste (working in an evening outside so wanted to get it done and back in the garage and maybe get some sleep before work!!) I forgot to line the ply with something the rubber wouldn't stick too.

Anyway. I mixed the stuff up and poured it in. When the level reached the height of the top of the metal mount it started to leak out on the inside. At that point it was full below and on all sides of the metal so I'd pretty much achieved what I wanted. I kept pouring hoping that it would stiffen and fill the gap it was leaking from before it stopped pouring but no such luck. It found its own level.

Once the initial set had happened (2hrs) I removed the clamps and found the ply was stuck fast. I had to cut through the rubber, leaving a thin layer stuck to the ply as there was no way that was going to peel off! This means that the outer face is a bit rough looking but is fully intact. The foam part of the shutter pulled off okay leaving a matt textures which is probably the outer layer of the foam.

It is definitely much firmer. I took it out for a run this evening and no vibration issues and you can feel the difference in terms of less slack as drive is engaged so pleased.

I'll show the photos even though it looks a bit rough and there is still a gap at the top...