Hi all I'm a new member with a k3. With help from a couple of friends we have managed to get the car stripped down to the tub and start again. Unfortunately the car was a riot when I bought it but I am slowly getting there. Its mid way to a 1.8 vvc conversion with pg1 gearbox, it now has coilovers all round. Mgtf brakes 16" alloys braided lines around. Lotus s2 elise seats and a few other bits and Bob's. I will post picks on completion but I might need a wee bit of advice on the way.

Welcome Jay. I'm not all that familiar with the K3 but have done a VVC/PG1 upgrade on my Spyder from a 1.6/R65.

I'm sure there are others who have trod this path before you so there are likely to be help/advice answers to any questions you have so ask a away!

Looking forward to the pics.

Thanks man, all I know it it's a major pain in the posterior to fit the 1.8 vvc into the k3. I want to keep all the metro dash and instrument's

You'd be better off buying a full MGF then stripping off what you need & selling the rest. The early ones had a cable speedo which may work with the Metro gauges the later ones had a electrical speedo which won't.

Edit:- Oops just read you are halfway through, ignore about buying a full car, but do ensure you get the correct box

Done that bought a complete mgf. I have a couple of pg1 gearboxes and a complete wiring loom. Its defo not as straightforward as I first thought lol.

hi i have found this on my pc when i did my wiring i used rave MG Rover Technical Data cd
see the Attachments: this might not be right please check wires

Ohhhh boy, my head is going to be fried lol

It's not that bad if you are using the full MGF loom, remove all the tape off the loom & just leave a new wrap of tape every foot or so to hold it together, then lay the loom out in the car as it comes off the MGF, then identify & connect the ones you need, remove those you don't. Are you sticking with the 5AS immobiliser along with central locking?

I wasnt going to use the central locking or the immobiliser. I want to keep all the metro dash and heater controls. Wiring is not my strong point at all.

Unless you get the immobiliser switched off in the ECU (needs special kit to do that) you will need to keep the 5AS module and the plipper. You can disable the two circuits the immobiliser switches as IIRC it switches the return to earth so simply earthing those wires before the 5AS sorts that but you are still left with the ECU/5AS "handshake" each time the ignition switches on so they agree the rolling code. If that doesn't happen the engine will start okay but will stop again after about 5 seconds.

@Catsam - is that summary page you did based on a MEMS3 system?

Hi
When i did my one all i was left with from the full mgf loom was this



I think on my car the 5AS alarm the Grey plug was the same as metro so did not have to change any wires in that
I did use the white plug for the central looking and transponder coil .
my car has a clean metro loom not cut about witch helped



I think when rover and mg made the cars they used the same wires for the grey plug just put more on the white plug central looking and transponder coil and more



The transponder coil is not used to run the car its extra

You can also if you don't want to keep the 5AS immobiliser send it off to https://www.technozen-electronics.co.uk ... -services/ & he will fit a small unit inside the ECU which does away with the handshake of the 5AS

I'll build the car and just send it to paul to wire it up lol