Just a few pics of work done last week

Towers cut and strenthened to incline coil overs


engine built

new flange to attatch rear section

new mtgs for rear coil overs facing inwards

top mtg to be welded to spaceframe and bolted to locking arm on new bracket

Nice progress.

What king of steering arms are You using?

I'm intending to mod the towers and incline the coilovers the same as you are doing (can be seen on Dermotts hillclimb Coupe too, that's where i was pinching the idea from ) What are you doing re the bottom coilover/top arm mounting

Tim

An upgrade to Twinki Cam?

Had a memory of you going single, Stil 1.6

looking good

Bottom coil over mtg not changed but will use NAS bolts, engine spec
Robspeed head, 290/300 cams, accralite pistons, 45's, mbe ignition, arp bolts hoping for around 180 bhp. Have nice shiney new trailer now so might drag it to Stoneliegh but its far from finished

Just a few more pics of front coil over set up, new top mtgs fitted don't think they will bend !!





Viewed from the front showing incline



Rear coil over mods next week

Those angles look much better than the original set-up and pretty much what i was planning. Seeing what other people are doing only helps to add more ideas

Having done all the work is there anything you would do differently I only ask because it seems that with everything i do if it were to be done again there would be some small changes

Thanks, Tim (the other one)

Nice and precise.

Respect.

The mounting will deffiniatly NOT bend.

Bottom bracket fitted, top bracket mock up, it will have gussed fit onto rear frame.

Hi , just an idea for anyone fitting coil overs on the front , rather than raise the height of the top mount , why not bolt it to the bottom arm ? thats how its done on my old racer , cheers will post pics as soon as i find them

I hear it knocks out bottom ball joint really fast?

Hi , im not sure about that ? now u got me thinking lol , i did not do the alterations it must of been done long ago, the bottom arms look bespoke and run on thicker rods, i would of thought the forces would be similar given the movement is the same , i am collecting bits to rebuild this car and if it is not the way to go maybe someone can let me know before i finish lol
As soon as i get my pics (should be somewhere on disc , and the car since is dismantled completely) i will try to list them , i have a hayabusa engine that im trying to work out how to fit, and also an lsd to convert , if anyone has any ideas to help please let me know

I'd suggest you best starting point would be to come along to an event where multiple options can be given (probably to many options ) whilst standing over the back end of a Coupe

And as we are talking Coupes......... Recommeded are............

The British Mini Showdown July 10th/11th 2010 (Shakespeare County Raceway) / or Mini in the Park August 15th 2010 (MITP Santa Pod)

The lower ball joint is the most stressed joint on an upright. due to cornering forces etc.

In very very simple terms almost too simple.

If you put the shock mount on the bottom arm, the lower ball joint will be in tension from the weight of the car and expriance very high tensile shock loads when hitting bumps plus all the other forces.

If you mount the shock on the top arm the upper ball joint is in compression. The other loads from cornereing are lower when compared to the lower joint

I would suspect the ball joint on a mini upright is stronger in compression than in tension

Neil

Exploding bottom balljoint here coilovers-on-a-coupe-t267.html in Peter Wilcock's reply

The bottom balljoints always appear to wear faster anyway without extra load.