Hi everyone
So, after replacing all the non verto bits with the correct verto bits (arm, slave and release bearing) and putting it all back together again, guess what.....
Still not working... I think I've come full circle and will have to resume my attempts to free the clutch off by warming it up and then with it in gear driving on the starter hoping it will just pop off. This is really anoying me now....
Those of you who have been reading and contributing to my clutch problem posts will know how reluctant I am to change the clutch plate itself. I have read numerous horror stories about stuck flywheels and broken pullers etc. If I do end up having to do this it will be with the engine in situ. I had a bit of trouble getting the wok off but once it was removed it looked like getting a puller in there would be possible but very awkward.

I think I need a few words of encouragement.

Ed

Give yourself a free weekend to get it done. Make sure you've got all the bits that you'll need, new clutch, good supply of tea. I'm sure if you tackle it with the right frame of mind you'll get it done.

It might be worth looking at the mod that some have done to make the bar that goes over the top of the clutch removable. Not needed to do it on mine, but would make this sort of job a lot easier, as the engine out part is made loads easier.

You can do it.

I've not played with a verto for many years so I could be completely wrong here - can't you unbolt the clutch leaving the flywheel in place?

Sounds interesting... do you mean it may come out without a puller...?

Thinking about it I don't think it would work as the flywheel and clutch are the other way round on the verto setup....?

Yeah, ignore me - I've just had a bit of a google and it won't.

I seriously would give it a go with a puller though - if it comes off reasonable easily then everyone is a winner. If it won't, then try something else.

Yeah I guess you're right. So if it came off with a puller, would i be expecting the clutch plate to come off with the flywheel- fused together...?

It's all one unit when it comes off, you then unbolt the clutch from the flywheel - then likely a screwdriver will pry the friction plate off the flywheel once the pressure is off it.

Don't forget about the "C" washer in the flywheel, if you start the pull with the flywheel the wrong way up, you can stick the flywheel there for good.

I think no1 tdc should be right for the c-washer, i seem to remember the puller threads in the flywheel are metric on a verto set up (the old set-up was imperial) load the puller as much as is sensible and if the flywheel has'nt come off already (usually with a bang) and you have enough room give the puller centre bolt some good smacks on the end with a decent weight copper hammer. Please do'nt forget to use the distance piece that stops the puller bolt going down the flywheel bolt hole. Good luck

Ps beg, steal, borrow or sell your soul for a Sykes Pickavant puller if possible, they are top quality

And once you have removed the centre bolt don't forget to remove the locking plate that sits underneath it like I did Stoopid b*gger.....

Preload the puller, let it work for some time (for a Tea or Coffe-time), then give the puller center bolt one SHARP hit with a medium size (app 2-3kgs). Try to aim the blow just on the center of the bolt. If it does not work, increase the preload and go again. If nothing gets You to the point, get a torch and try heating the center piece of the clutch (under preload), taking care not to heat the spring as it can get fragile and brake off when used again.

I told you that you'd need tea!

Just a quick thought before you get carried away, did you check the gap between the large nuts in the middle of the wok (on the plunger) and the actual wok.

Hi Tim, I don't currently have the 2 large nuts fitted to the plunger. It is going in a fair way when the pedal is fully depressed, but I'm still not convinced it's going in far enough. One part I didn't renew is the plunger itself. I wish I had now as I read on the mini forum that these can wear a bit (the hole the ball joint sits in) stopping the plunger from going in far enough to operate the clutch. One of the regular contributors to the mini forum, a guy who specialises in mini gearboxes said it's actually quite rare for the clutch itself to get siezed. As I said I have come full circle with this and am again wondering if I should try levering the release arm out past the throw of the slave to see if it is simply not pushing in far enough. But I don't want to do damage anything internally. I posted up a question on the mini forum last night about freeing off siezed clutches but it's turned out to be the dreaded tumbleweed post that nobody has replied to. At least I can rely on you chaps for helpful advice. I will explore all avenues before I begin stripping it down again. I will get it sorted but it's a frustration at the moment. The car's not far off being ready aside from the clutch.

Ed

I've seen quite a few clutches stuck to flywheels over the years. Especially vertos.

Take it to bits, or you're going to spend weeks deciding that you've got to take it to bits anyway by the looks of it.

Decent preparation, decent bit of weather and you'd have it sorted in 2 or 3 hours i'm sure.