Unfortunatly both my master-clutch and brake-cilinders are wet, top and sides.
If I take a look at the paint on the the steel chassis below the cilinders, this is not the first time there is a leakage, a lot of paint has gone or is loose.
I can't find a spot that leaks, maybe the banjo-adapters are not leakfree.
Does anybody know what kind of Banjo-connectors they are and where to find them or find new rings?
The filler-caps have ventilationholes which can spill fluid when the cilinder is too full.
To how high can I fill them?
If I dry the cilinders and go for a drive, the are wet again when I get back.
When I bought the car a few months back, the braking got worse, In the end I had too pump two times to get pressure.
When looked at the mastercilinder there was too little brakefluid, also I bleeded the brakes, there was some air in them.
I also adjusted the brakes on the rear.
The braking seems to go well now, alltough it pulls i bit to the right when engaging the brakes an then pulls straight again.
Hopefully this will disappear once I have placed new rubbers in the front suspension, together with adjustuble lower arms and tierods.

That was a long story to illustrate the wet-cilinders-problem.

Buy new ones or wont that fix the problems?

Cheers

Greets from Holland

I can't comment on leaks from the connections but my own metal master cylinders had lots of very small 'pin-holes' on the top of the units. I couldn't see them when I removed them form the storage box and they only became apparent after I had cleaned/wire wheeled the units to remove grime and rust. It could be possible you have pinholes in your units?

Before spending money on re-furb kits or new connections I would carefully check for any unwanted corrosion holes

Also If you do buy new units I think may have the same problem as me if you decide to buy the plastic master cylinders. From your picture the master cylinders are close together (not as close as mine however) and they may foul against each other. The metal ones are more expensive but should obviously fit without need for re-drilling any holes etc.

I'm no expert on this but I think you have 2 issues:
1. The end of the master cylinder was not designed for a banjo fixing so I don't think its machined flat and therefore its probably difficult to achieve a full seal at the washer -- the seal with the normal fitting is the conical shape at the bottom of the threaded hole.
2. The original builder has put 2 washers under the banjo which won't help with sealing. This may have been because the banjo center bolt is too long or just a way of increasing the amount of crush within the washers -- this isn't good engineering practice. If the bolt is too long you could try filing it down to fit properly with only 1 washer underneath (and one on top obviously).

You can probably confirm if the leak is from the banjo area if after a drive this area is wet. If not then the problem is possibly what "runk" suggested in his post.

New washers should be available at your local spares shop but if not Minispares stock them and there's always e-bay -- search brake banjo washers or similar.

Hope this helps.
Steve

As Steve said the thread is made to accept a flared pipe tube nut, only one washer should be fitted under and over the banjo, copper washers can be annealed (softened) using a gas flame on your cooker, to check if the banjo was leaking get somebody to press hard on the brakes and clutch while you look for leaks with the bonnet open. most likely you have pin holes and the better solution if replacing would be to fit the plastic pot master cylinders
John

If the leak is from the banjo you will find it just by pressing hard on the pedal with the car stationary.

If the leak only happens when the car is moving then it's leaking out from the breather hole or from leaks in the reservoir.

Thanks Guys.

On first view the vertical pieces below the Banjos don't seem wet, but maybe that is because it is vertical and the fluid drips down before I see it.
I already booked my girlfriends feet to go stand on clutch- and brakepedal while I look under the bonnet.
See what happens then. Maybe there are pinholes in them, the clutchcilinder is quite corroded. or maybe the cans are too full, maybe the Banjos leak.
If nothing leaks when my girlfriend pushes the pedals hard, then the Banjo's are okay I guess.
I agree that the two copper washers above and below the Banjo isn't a pretty solution, if it's a solution at all.
Maybe it's a hint that it leaks or has leaked there and someone tried to fix it like this?
Hopefully the bolt isn't too long for one washer on eacht side.
Glowing the the copper washers will make them a bit softer indeed.

To how high can I fill the cannisters so the brake/clutch-fluid won't spill through the breathinghole?
Is there some kind of rule?

Hi Harold, I used to filled 12 to 15mm below the top of the can and never had any spill out of the vent hole.
Good luck with the girl friend on the peddles, I hope it's not leaking from the banjo's
John

Personal question - You've got the feet, what's the rest of Her doing

Thanks John, that's about the same hight as Mine.

@malcolm: There are things I rather not share on the web