Hi all
I am now in the latter stages of preparing my tub for assembly and have been mulling over ideas about getting some more air flow through the engine bay. My initial thoughts are to fabricate a duct at floor level below the gear linkage that deflects the under body air into the engine bay to get the air flowing. Anybody have any other thoughts/cunning plans for better air flow in this area?
Cheers
Simon

I posted pictures of the exact idea on a post here somewhere.

I only ever found an engine bay temp problem with my old Cox when stuck in traffic and the fuel vaporized, on the move all was fine, this was cured by having an air box with a ducted air supply to the carb, if you are worried about engine temps why not pass air through the center tunnel, this could help interior temp as I always found the water pipes inside the tunnel made the interior rather warm, If I were racing I would rather have a flat floor extending back under the engine and forward of the front subframe to behind the spoiler on the bonnet, make it more slippery
John

Thanks for that John,
I think that will be a bit far for historic racing though, the trouble with ducting through the tunnel is that I have a plate across it where the tunnel drops. I was thinking of putting a fan on the right side (where the rad goes on a Mini) and ducting from the rear wheel arch area. I don't want accurate air direction so much as I just want to get the hot air from the engine moving out of the engine cover apertures.

There is a historic Austin 750 racer running with a flat floor in the Hadley cup series (it surprised me to see it) so cant see why a flat floor is not acceptable unless specified in the club rules.
John

Here's a picture of the rear of my Cox

A rather helpful little mod that's is do'able as you have a black and white number plate car.

Think black aluminium outer number plate surround, with the center cut out, and a fine mesh painted black fitted in the center.

Then re-attach the white numbers, like a early lotus style front number plate.

Now all the hot air that usually gets trapped at the rear of the engine bay can escape.

Also if you have air movement from your fan, plus any engine bay ducting, it should create enough air flow/movement.
Plus the other cooling mod we discussed.

You could also lift the rear edge of the engine cover like the CCC Cox boys do.


Zoom in on the number plate

John
Sorry I didn't mean a flat floor was a problem I mean the GRP deflector you posted might be considered a bit OTT.
My Heerey has no holes underneath ans I will be smoothing out the front except for the rad exit (which I may still send through the wheel wells anyway). At the back I was thinking a fan sucking air from underneath to get the air moving in the engine compartment.

That is a good idea to get the cooling of the luggage compartment, like the front of an Elan? I was thinking of slots along the bottom edge of the horizontal piece that runs along that back of mine, mine is not flat like the Cox, but the principal is the same. If I did that on mine I would do it with a rectangular plate as a square one wouldn't work on the Heerey rear. Where do you get the numbers?

I brought a number plate, and used the numbers

I cut a large circle out behind the plate and used spacers to mount it. The panel has a curve so it vents at each side.
Saying that I've never had a problem, in fact on the road it is only on a rare warm day that the central tunnel heats up.
Catch 22.

Hmmm, that may well be a neater/easier solution Ken, I could put a series of 50mm holes behind where the NP goes and add some spacers to the plate. Nice.