The windows have a tendency to stick up at the rear, so much as to catch on the bodywork (roof rail), which leads to not winding them up as far as they will go, which in turn leads to leaking in of rain water at the front!

I have removed both sides, greased both mechanisms and all six channels that run wheels, given the bottom rails a little clout to ensure a correctly seating window and sprayed silicone in the vertical rubber runners and everything is working more easily but they still stick up at back!!!

Next I adjusted the height limiting device and filed a little out of the four (each side) frame retention holes to lower the rear and raise the front. Little improvement.
Any ideas chaps - Are my frames out of spec? Would new rubber in the vertical rails help? HELP PLEASE.

Mine are exactly the same as yours! Also i'm sure i've looked at other Libras & they are the same!!
I think its the way they were designed.
But i'd also be interested if anyone has sorted this problem out & how they done it.

Well Sven, I think I have a way to get the side windows to wind up properly - You just break the screen completely

Does anyone have a spare drivers window for sale???

PLEASE.

Have you cut some material out of the front triangle?

My manual says there is an eccentric adjuster that regulates how high the window goes. I seem to recall you can tilt adjust the mechanism too.

My windows line up perfectly with the door aperture - been a long time since I did it so don't recall exactly how or if it needed modding, I think we pretty much followed the instructions.

The window themselves are Ford Fiesta three door type, 1989 onwards with green tint.

SAS

Hi sidewinder,

Thank you for the window type and the heads-up on the adjustments available.

I suspect that the windows were modified by Ford some time in the production cycle 'cause it seems to me that the rear of the glass is 5-6mm longer/higher than it should be for the Libra. I can't believe that GTM would have messed up.

Even after many attempts at correcting through frame, eccentric wheel and the level adjuster in whatever combination, I was unable to get the back to sit down lower enough so it would allow full closure without the glass binding on the bodywork.

Not one for giving up, I looked to tilting the glass up at front and then using the other adjustments to stop at the right spot whilst fitting the aperture.

Tilting could be done in two ways. The first way would be the best and safest but would depend on access to a MIG spotwelder, spotweld unpicker and suitable protection of the glass (thick cardboard held in place by masking tape).

Unpick all spotwelds except the rearmost, weld them all back(with protection in place!!!) with 5-6mm lower at the front, reducing to standard height at the rear. Replace the window rail(with the window still attached) into the frame, then the door, and fiddle with the adjustments to get optimum closure.

Method 2 is much simpler but riskier and is the method I used after I'd made a complete mess of the welding on the 1st method (I'd unpicked and welded with the increased gap at the rear doh!!!).

Create a wedge from a piece of hard plastic about 6mm thick, 6mm wide and 75mm long, I used a plastic mould wedge ( http://www.polyfibre.co.uk/index.php?sec=prod&prod=111) filed until even.

With the glass with rail out of the car, hammer the wedge into the front of the glass BETWEEN the steel rail and the rubber supporting the glass. Do this carefully with a wooden driver and a rubber mallet, impacting the glass, AS I FOUND TO MY COST, breaks the glass. I'm still picking up little crystals of glass.

Just to ensure smooth running I attended the Restoration & classic car show at NEC Birmingham and acquired new window runners and some WD40 Silicone lubricant to help with the slide action.

Well, The car belong to my son( my wife complained that I had too many projects of the go) but it has been on the drive since last year - engine and gearbox change, water pipes, gearchange and more and he has just recently bought a house and proposes to move the car soon, whenever that is.

Thanks again and I should be able to get back to my Coupe after I've made a new boot lid, binnacle and dashboard.