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Buying Guide http://www.gtmdrivers.com/forum/buying-guide-t3680.html |
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Author: | Simmit [ Sat Jan 28, 2017 1:02 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Buying Guide |
Many thanks Yazza. An excellent guide for anyone, like me, who is interested to buy a Libra but new to the marque and knows so little. |
Author: | West [ Sat Jan 28, 2017 5:40 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Buying Guide |
Sticky'd |
Author: | sanzomat [ Sat Jan 28, 2017 9:38 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Buying Guide |
A good read. Would have been useful to have that before I bought mine but I think I found most of it by trawling through lots of posts on here and Team GTM. I bought my Spyder in October 2014 after looking for over 18 months. Initially I wasn't too bothered about Spyder or Libra but when my Spyder became available (reasonably locally, only 60 miles away) and I went to view it I fell in love with the look of it and I do enjoy a bit of open top motoring. Since 2014 there have only been 3 other Spyders come up for sale in the UK and two of them were Cat C repaired. All the advice on what to look for is great but in reality if you really want one you might have to just buy whatever you find and be prepared for what you might want to do to upgrade to the spec you really wanted. Obviously this guide is really useful so you can be prepared! There are a few more Libras but still don't see more than, say, five a year come available. Mine started life as 1.4 SPi 8 valve. By the time I bought it it had been changed to the 1.6 but still with the R65 & rattle rods. Mk1.5 rear suspension - land rover track rod ends and the doubled up brackets) The engine cradle and rear suspension had recently been blasted and re-powder coated (while the engine was being changed). The rear Gaz shocks had been factory refurbed. The front wishbones were in a bit of a state with the powder coat all cracked and flaking and rust showing through but in fact it was very shallow and didn't take much to sort. Since buying I've upgraded to 1.8VVC and PG1 with MGF cable change (with TF bell crank and F cables - works fine for me). I've changed the rack for the LHD TF 2.7 turn one - big improvement over the Metro 3.6 turns. I've fitted the Passat rad (overheated on my first track day while still on the 1.6 but stays fine with the Passat rad how ever long I thrash it for) I've refurbed the front wishbones and sent the Gaz shocks to the factory for a refurb too. I'd really like the front ARB (and maybe a rear too) as there is a bit too much body roll on track but to be fair I don't think I'd notice it on the road. My biggest handling improvement came when I found one of the land rover TRE's was loose - wasn't worn out, just was rocking in the taper! I've replaced with the FAI ones with the hex socket in the taper thread so no issues with them spinning while tightening down! I've installed a sump baffle as I killed my big ends on the 1st VVC I put in, possibly due oil surge on a track day so I thought a baffle was a good idea. I'm now trying to sort out an oil overheating issue. It stays fine on the road but on track the temp goes off the scale and the oil pressure drops off. New XRPM 10-50 comp spec only lasts one track day before its shagged. I've fitted an air to oil rad with a little electric fan (its behind the engine and very sub-optimal in terms of air flow) which helps a bit but my next upgrade will be a water to oil heat exchanger (laminova or similar) Also, one to note, very sensitive to tyre pressures. Makes a big difference. I'm using 21psi rear and 19psi front. On track I let a bit out when they get warm to keep them at that pressure. If the rears get too hard you lose a lot of rear grip. Rear geometry is also important. As the rear trailing arms flex you tend to head towards toe out and positive camber if you start close to neutral and that (in my own personal experience) tends to lead to a spin!! (obviously only on track). I've gone with 1.5 degrees negative camber & 0.5 degree toe in on the back. The tyres are wearing a little unevenly but it is now very stable/planted! Obviously the Z cars would fix all that but you'd miss out on all the fun of adjusting it all the time! |
Author: | yazza54 [ Sun Jan 29, 2017 8:27 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Buying Guide |
Yes of course sometimes it does just come down to what's available, but what this gives is the prospective buyer a clear view on the actual spec of the car because they're simply not all the same. There's a lot of choice upgrades that you'll want if the cars going to be a keeper, so they can define whether a car is worth the asking price or not. I'd certainly pay a considerable chunk more for a car that had most boxes on this page ticked. It would be good to keep this thread updated, use it as an information dump, although things like setup, pressures, geometry are already well covered on the forum. I just wanted to get all the FAQs/Answers for newbies in one place. |
Author: | Gargoil [ Wed Feb 01, 2017 1:59 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Buying Guide |
Great review. Will come in handy for the few that are fortunate enough to own a Libra/Spyder. |
Author: | madmazturbo [ Wed Feb 01, 2017 10:07 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Buying Guide |
Not a bad read up mate, not bad at all |
Author: | stewb [ Thu Oct 26, 2017 9:08 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Buying Guide |
One other consideration is immobilisers etc. Cars using factory Rover / MG Ecus will tend to have the Lucas TRW "5AS" alarm ecu. These will mostly have the 2 button remote fob & depending on the vehicle it came from (and if it has been coded since) will affect how the immobiliser function works. The later cars used passive immobilisation which will mean that you need a working remote fob to remobilse the system, even if its not configured that way then isolating the main battery could result in immobilisation if you don't have a working fob. Rover MG specialists can reprogram remotes & supply new remotes but it does require specific diagnostic kit & the remotes aren't cheap so it needs to be considered when buying. Fobs need resynching following battery disconnect - this can be achieved by pressing the unlock button 3 times in a row. Usual rules apply with 3rd party alarm immobilisers, having a spare remote / fob is always a wise precaution so ask if there is only one present. On the subject of electrical gremlins it's also worth mentioning checking to see if the cabin blower works on all speeds, its common for the resistor to fail & leave only speed 3 working. Easy enough fix but worth mentioning. Most other issues are grotty earths, manky connectors (especially the rear clam as its generally located in a position where it gets sprayed by the rear wheels). Hope this helps. |
Author: | RTH [ Thu Mar 28, 2019 12:11 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Buying Guide |
Very useful guide chaps do please keep it updated. |
Author: | hawrebelo [ Wed Mar 16, 2022 7:33 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Buying Guide |
the best guide i have ever read |
Author: | ems1 [ Fri May 26, 2023 8:42 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Buying Guide |
Thank you for the buyer's guide. I'm looking to buy a Libra Coupe in the near future. As the cars are around 20 years old now is there anything I should look out for on the tub, etc? Are the windscreen and door glass shared with a mass produced car? Are the rear wishbones a major problem on the Libra and what arb's fit. Has anyone fitted a roll cage to one or are they strong enough? Is the steering heavy at parking speeds? Thank you |
Author: | sanzomat [ Tue May 30, 2023 7:33 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Buying Guide |
ems1 wrote: Thank you for the buyer's guide. I'm looking to buy a Libra Coupe in the near future. As the cars are around 20 years old now is there anything I should look out for on the tub, etc? Are the windscreen and door glass shared with a mass produced car? Are the rear wishbones a major problem on the Libra and what arb's fit. Has anyone fitted a roll cage to one or are they strong enough? Is the steering heavy at parking speeds? Thank you The tubs are really strong generally so unlikely to suffer from stress cracking etc. The only report of issues has been on just one car where the lay up seemed thinner than normal around the rear trailing arm mounts such that one pulled out and some Libras have reported some flex in the rear bulkhead. Anecdotally this is more likely on later cars produced after the Peter and Paddy era. Windscreens are Fiat Cinquecento 92-98, dorr glass is Ford Fiesta (can't remember which but on this forum somewhere) Rear wishbones - the pivots do wear but easy to replace. The metal itself is steel so will rust if not maintained and I guess will fatigues eventually. No reports of failures to my knowledge ARB's you'll need to make your own now. Cages - arguably not needed for road use, better without unless you wear a helmet. Some have fitted cages (half cages?) for motorsport use Steering isn't heavy at parking speed. (maybe a little if you have the quicker rack) |
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