Can anyone check the gap between the engine mount and the frame at this point on their car please? Mine is about 1/4" - I can fit a drill bit of that size in the gap.



SAS

I can get an 8mm drill bit in that gap. I think I started off with a new mount 70k ago.

Bob.

Ta Bob, anyone else?

Mine's about 10mm.

Phil

I bought a new mount knuckle (CRC8755) cos they were 80% off on RimmerBros, to see how much flex there was in a new part compared to mine (while still on car) and there was quite a difference.

So decided to take the plunge and install the new one.

In short, it is possible to remove the engine end mounts without taking the engine out. Handy to know as the mounts have to come off to change the timing belt.

1, support engine from above via chain & small bracket fixed to one of the lifting holes next to the VVC actuator. Also underneath on end of sump with jack, using wood and hard foam to spread the load.

2. undo two nuts from top of studs, front one easy as plenty access, rear one needed an S (obstruction) spanner to get to the nut - mine was an odd size 18mm flanged.

3, remove knuckle cross bolt.

4, remove old knuckle - lol - not easy. Done by removing outer timing cover and triangular mount plate that bolts to the end of the engine and supports the knuckle. This was rather tricky due to lack of access and being unable to separate the two parts because of limited space & unable to remove the studs from the plate. Had to slide the knuckle/plate up and out to clear the engine end, then rotate bottom towards you and push the top back in. This allows to slide the mount plate off the knuckle which can then be knocked in and down to remove it. Much rejoicing.

Comparing the new and old rubber bushes in the knuckle it's easy to see the difference. Old one is distorted, squashed down and partially detached from the metal. The old one was 27years old.


The studs were really tough to remove from the plate given there is no way to grip them with a spanner etc so used a stilson on the plain area which did the trick. I'm going to cut a slot in the stud's tops to allow them to be screwed with a flat blade driver, this will make reassembly/future disassembly much easier.


The plastic timing cover had to be modded slightly by cutting off some of the conical molding that goes over the inlet cam wheel, otherwise it interferes with the engine frame (GTM told us this when we got the engine back in 2001 or so). This was just glued on and got knocked off during the work so I created a new 'cover' using some spare PU rubber I had. Kinda like a domed grommet - seals the hole up better and is removable.


As all these parts are off allowing access, i'm going to replace the Timing belt(s)/tensioner (current one is engine's original and 15years old!) and the alternator belt, plus new spark plugs while i'm at it. Currently waiting on parts/new tools.

Good info there.

How much was the new mount out of interest?

£24 http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-CRC8755 I got two new side rubbers too http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-KKD10004

SAS

Interesting. When mine needs changing I'll do it next time I'm replacing the engine (seems to be after every three track days ) In fact I've now got a 160 waiting for next time!

I was interested to see you have studs. Mine has hex sockets headed bolts. This does make it easy to get a tool down into them as a long hex mounted in a socket fits down the gap easily. Studs might make it easier when changing the engine though as I have found it hard to get it lined up well enough to get the bolts in previously.

Did you consider filling the voids with some of the shore 70 liquid/setting polymer?

That round bulge on the timing cover makes it nigh impossible to get any tool near the rear of the two fixings.

I am considering maybe filling top part of it but don't want to make it too solid and maybe introduce more vibes.

New timing belts/tensioner etc now fitted. Also mount plate and knuckle fitted - much easier with the studs removed from the plate. I cut slots in the top of the studs so they could be screwed in to the plate once it and the knuckle were in the right positions. Found that the knuckle can actually be manoeuvred in from the outside of the two uprights which made things easier.

Didn't bother adding any extra rubber to the knuckle's bush, so will see how it goes. Can always add some if I decide to later now I know it's fairly straightforward to get it on/off thanks to my removable studs set-up.

Only the drive pulley and alternator belt to fit and set up now.

I'm getting a vibration transmitted into the car. That knuckle mount can be moved a lot with a lever so I decided this could be the cause. I found I could remove it from the outside once the coilover was moved out of the way.

It looked pretty much like your old one Sidewinder! I've filled the voids with shore 70. Will refit once it has fully set and see if that makes any difference.

Poweflex do void bushes that will fit the Metro engine mount. From memory they are listed as Rover 200 gearbox mount void bushes.

If anything it'll make the vibes worse as a more solid mount will transmit more vibes. Also strictly speaking you've 'fixed' the metal bit in the wrong place now, compared to a new part.

I've come to the opinion that modding engine mounts to be more solid is fine for racing etc but an awful idea for a road car due to increased vibes etc. In fact i've recently drilled a few holes in my 'filled in' gearbox mount

This is what Rog means: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Powerflex-Ge ... SwVZ1cZL3V

I fitted my modded mount this evening and went out for a drive and I found it much better. I think the vibrations I was feeling in the cabin was due to the inner metal part touching the outer metal part at the top. There is a thin coating of rubber so not quite metal on metal but no resilience at all. With the mount unloaded it did spring back to roughly central. I guess from the picture of the new part that when loaded it sits fairly centrally.

Mine is now held centrally by the much stiffer shore 70 poly rubber.

Whilst it is much stiffer, it does have some resilience and much less vibration is getting into the cockpit than before and I'd say it is now as good as its ever been in my ownership.

I found when I filled the gearbox end mount it was much smoother taking up drive and changing gear so I think the gearbox was moving around quite a bit. The improvement in terms of less slop isn't as noticeable having filled the front mount but neither, in my opinion, has it caused any additional harshness or vibration transmission - in my case much less.

Thanks for the link - those powerflex inserts do look like they'd do the same job and would be removeable if tried and not liked.