I've discovered that the rear clam supports on my Spyder are not parallel to the clam when it's in the down position. They touch at the back but not at the front (see drawing a). There's not enough adjustment to allow them to be corrected as the bolt-on right angle supports are in their lowest position and can't be dropped further due to the fact that the plates on the engine frame won't allow any more movement.

I'm sure that if they fitted correctly and had some rubber to cushion the weight slightly it would reduce some of the rattles. The clam currently needs a good pull/shove to get the screw holes aligned with the spire nuts and this may also be improved with better fitting supports.

Before I take an angle grinder to trim the chassis of a very rare car (drawing b) is this a problem anyone else has encountered and has anyone got any thoughts or comments?

Thanks.

I had the same problem. A few points
1. Mine has rubber glued to the top of the supports.
2. I did have to do some trimming.
3. Before you trim make sure the fit between the clam and the tub is the right height and has an even gap all the way around. You may need to adjust the height and F-R location at the hinge.

In some cases it is worth loosening or unbolting the hinges completely and resting the clam on the supports, the tub and perhaps a jack or two at the rear edge. That way you can choose the perfect location for the clam, then adjust the supports and hinges to suit.

The rear clam has possibly been taken off at some point and for some reason new brackets fitted since I owned it as it used to be a really good fit and the brackets were blue with rubber on the tops.
It may be worth checking that the bottom hinge is lined up correctly as I always had a good cushion fit on the length of the support and to be honest it was very snug ( no rattles) with only a thin piece of rubber and all the holes used to line up really well. I did have the clam off when the engine was rebuilt in my early days of ownership and time was taken then to achieve the good fit so I go with Spider, release the rear hinge and move the clam to get a better fit hopefully.
Phil

Thanks. Who knows what's happened in the last couple of years? The panel gap on the driver's side is a bit bigger than the passenger side so I'll loosen everything up and re-adjust the hinges.

It's a fidely time consuming job to test your patience but it will line up!

Yes, loads of adjustment on the clam hinge brackets as shown by the green arrows. Taking the clam off/on just requires the hinge pin bolt to be removed so no need to readjust every time.

Mine sits nicely on the supports and I have some old wetsuit neoprene foam glued to the tops of the ledges for anti rattle. When I bought it it used bits of rubber mat but these were quite hard and didn't seem to do much.

For those interested this photo also shows my rear ARB arrangement albeit on full droop as the suspension is disconnected to allow the driveshaft to be removed and the car is jacked up high for an engine removal.

Well, after a few hours fiddling I’ve got a decent fit with the screw holes lining up nicely. Still going to have to trim the Clam supports down a little to enable a nice flat contact between them and the underneath of the boot floor.
The curved ends of my rear frame tubes (that hold the clam hinges) aren’t braced like the ones on Sanzomat’s car and are a bit ‘wobbly’ when the clam is in the up position. May have to work on some strengthening plates.