Possibly getting a bit ahead of myself here but it's going to be happening in the not too distant future I hope.

I've had it all bolted on for alignment purposes and whatnot so the question is around bonding/sealing it. The main part that makes me nervous is where it bolts to the top of the sills at the rear as that's where I always seemed to get rusty stains before I took it apart. What's best to put between the metal and the fibreglass?

I've got the area in red lead at the moment and will have a top-coat on there before I fit the body for keeps. I've used Sika-Flex 221 in the past. It cures like rubber and seems to last. Anyone got any better/different suggestions?

What have those that have done it used and how has is stood up to subsequent use?

Iain

On mine I have a thing piece of rubber approx 1/8 of an inch thick from memory and some sikaflex

So painted sill, 2K etched primed, and celly
Sika flex
Thin piece of rubber
Sika flex
Fibre glass
bolted down with stainless bolts.

The rubber is slightly smaller and a bead of sika flex ran round.

Its worked OK, I will admit there is a little sign of something going on tho it has been ten years since the body went on.

I am my personal view you need some good paint/primer under the joint. A repair I have done with just celly primer and paint has not lasted as well as the original 2k etch and celly I used.

Neil

I think that's pretty much what I was coming down to but nice to have someone else agree.

I keep looking at air-fed masks so that I can do at least little jobs in 2k. I think the sills might be the first one - should be small enough to do in the garage with the extractor going and a proper mask fed from a compressor outside (away from the extractor exhaust).

The red lead I've used is proper stuff and not the modern pretend stuff that's just red coloured primer to make you think it's what you used to be able to get. I did the whole chassis in it and it's proven it's got a good hold where things have knocked against it during assembly. Hopefully then a decent hard wearing top-coat will see the area protected for a good while and further protection from a sliver of rubber and decent sealant will add to that.

Iain

Might be of use a quick search showed up this My dad put me on to it.

http://www.alloypaints.com/gerson-2k-disposable-paint-spray-respirator-face-mask-medium-large-72-p.asp

Neil

I'm seeing a few filter masks that say they are 2K Iso safe nowadays.

Not altogether sure I'd trust them though as breathing in will always create a low pressure area inside the mask and it's then whether there is less resistance for air to go through the filters or past the seal with your face somewhere that dictates whether you get clean air or a lungfull of poisonous fumes.

Coupled with the fact that isocyanates are absorbed through the damp membranes of the body to you would need to wear airtight goggles. I think a full mask with positive pressure is a better bet.

Iain