Hi, I used a 7/8" dia (22.22mm) 2mm wall thickness cold-drawn seamless tube I think its the same as you used I did not know which hole to use for the Drop rods to go in on the bottom wishbone so went for the middle I should be able to move it in or out to adjust it.
are the Drop rods made from M10 threaded rods strong enough I was looking at using a 10mm bar and threading the ends.

I might put one on the rear one day.
I think you can fit the one at the back without removing too much so that will be something to look at when I have the car on the road

I just used 10mm threaded rod for the drop links and so far its held up fine. I wondered about passing it through a tube with lock nuts either end to brace it but after 4 years including maybe 10 track days the unbraced threaded rod hasn't suffered. The cheap rose joints I used have started to go a bit loose but can't grumble.
I went for the hardest setting on the front.
I mounted my rear bar off the back of the engine frame with the levers going forwards so dead easy to fit with nothing to dismantle. I did find it worth having though as the front full stiff gave it a bit of understeer but a soft rear ARB brought it back to neutral.

I have all the fount done. It's taken me one year to get this done all I have to do is the inside. sort out the engine
should be done in two more years at this rate

Wow, was that really a year? Hardly seems more than a couple of months looking in from this side of the screen. Cracking work though, will be great when your done.

It's humbling to see how much progress you've made. I've had such a busy year with work and our house renovation that my poor Libra has hardly been driven, let alone worked on!

I have started to put the back end on the car. the engine has had a clean new head gasket water and timing belt .
The engine is in with the new referb gazz shoks. the hubs are back on. they are going back on a lot quicker than they came of nice and clean and new parts helps

Looking good. You stuck with a R65 gearbox then.

hi thanks
I was thinking of changing the engine and box but I thought
with all the work on the car that needs to be done, I would just get the car on the road, for now,
this might be a mistake, and a lot more work in the end as I still do not know if the engine works.
I was also looking at doing the rad

I have fitted some more bits back on the car it's starting to look like a car and I have made a new engine steady bar

I'm having some problems with my libra's gear rods the ends are all messed up but I have an R65 Gear Boxx has anyone changed to cables and kept the R65 Gear Box

Hi, I am still using rod gear change on an R65 box & a Rover VVC 160. I Have replaced some of the links on the gear box with some small rose end joints & threaded bar. They don't pop off when the plastic cup wears. The GTM vertical pivot assemble at the back is ok even though there is some wear in the plain bushes at the top & bottom. You do need to keep the pivots lubed fairly often or the gear change becomes stiff in the fore & aft movement of the gear lever.

HI thanks for the information

I have not done much to the libra.
I have got a boot spoiler for the car it's from a Honda Prelude.
This will not fit the car it needs a bit of work on the fixing points thanks to bob for the information on what needs to be done.
the spoiler needs to fix the boot and not the back of the car

.

I haven't done much on the car for some time it's too cold and damp outside. I have done some of the car trim panels I thought doing the k3 was hard but there are a lot more panels on the libra and they're not very flat

I have made a center console for the radio



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