Added a makeshift steel bracket to support the broken rear clam hinges so that it would not get any worse while the garage did the cam belt change and have worked out a way to make it permanent - I'll do both sides, stainless bits ordered, I'll post progress.

I can see the front clam stops on the tub that need extending to improve the mechanism - thanks Inkaphone.

Cam belts were changed by the garage.
It was a nightmare apparently - almost everywhere they needed access was obstructed by part of the fabricated mounting cage.
They were on the verge of calling me to say they would have to remove the engine but they persevered and managed it.
All belts, pulleys, tensioner changed, as well as water pump (which was leaking).

They also confirmed that everything in the V is leaking, so I've ordered a kit to replace thermostat etc.......lots to remove to get at it but not complicated, so I'll do that myself.

I've also spotted a couple of corroded shock absorber rods - Protech are quoting £30 per unit to recondition them, which seems reasonable but car will be off the road for a couple of weeks.

Also removed the "Wacky Racers" rear wing - think car looks better without it and it was cracking the boot lid.

I made sets of stainless front n rear hinge bracketry.

I just had Protech refurb all four on my Locost. I needed extended top mounts on the front two as I've put wide track wishbones from a MK Indy on it and the MK bottom clevis uses 1/2" bolts so they re-bushed the bottoms too (in fact they replaced all 8 bushes as part of the refurb at £30 a corner. I think if they need new rods they charge extra for the part but it isn't much.) I dropped them off myself at around 10am and we then visited Lacock and Caen Hill locks and they called to say they were ready at 13:30. Can't fault the service. Even got a couple of stickers.

I love the stainless clam hinges Sidewinder.... any chance you could let me have the plans?
Biggest issue I have is getting the old rusted steel ones out of the rear clam without doing more damage......shame GTM didn't use stainless in the first place really!

Worked out a way to stop the front flexing all over the place when its open - not very high-tech but it works and will do until I can do something more elegant - I hated that bit where the lower tray hits the stops and the rest of the clam carries on moving for a bit as it all bends!

Apologies if you've all fixed this already!

THE FIX
I got hold of some stainless cable (I used 4mm but 3mm would do and its more flexible so easier to manage) and I already had a supply of stainless nuts, bolts and washers (I hate rust!).
- To fix one end I drilled a hole on the top of the driving light nacelle (nice thick GRP there), inboard of centre so its not to close the the light mounting holes.
- To fix the other end I used convenient earth mounting points in the inner wings (gave me chance to clean the earths and replace the rusty fixings with stainless.....I hate rust!).
- Used big, load-spreading penny washers either side of the GRP at each end - had to trim the ones at the nacelle end so they didn't intrude into the centre hole.
- Used large washers to grip the loop of wire wrapped around the bolts.
- Shrink wrap tidied up the ends and helps keep the loop in shape while tightening the bolt.
- Adjusted the length of the wire so that it comes under tension just before the clam hits the stops and Robert is your father's brother.

Having trouble posting pics - says file is too big. What are the limits?

I was planning on dropping my shocks off at Protech , so it would be great if they can do mine as quick as yours Sanzomat.

Managed to upload a couple of pics.

I did this each side, one side wasn't enough to stabilise everything.

Keep pics jpeg and about 1000pixels wide.

I have enough parts to make another set of front and rears. £60 per end. (£120 for a full set of front/rear)

That's very tempting Sidewinder........how did you get the old rear mounts out of the clam?

IIRC I think I got one or two nuts off the others I cut off with a dremel. I also cut the pivot part off cos the pivot bolts were rusted solid.