Right. I'm decided.

After bodywork, next job is a Toyota 4a-ge, probably from an MR2 or Corolla GT.

(This gives possibility of relatively easy swap later on to 4a-gze)

I've seen some guy called Spag's conversion into a clubby front tin-top, and i've also heard it's been done on a Coupe before - though I can't find any evidence of this.

I want to keep standard(ish) rear suspension.

So, main questions for this post therefore are:

What are the main things I need to look out for that are Coupe specific?
Drawings or photos of modified rear frames (both subframe and chassis rear frame)???
Gearchange/driveshafts???
Fuel pump????

And Neil, yes, if you want to offload your old rr subby onto me when the new one comes online i'd be interested.

Not to my knowledge either, but you never know one may be hiding somewhere, like the turbo honda one that seems to be a myth ,

not a bad place to start, its fairly compact, should have reasonable/sensible ratios as the MR2 did have fairly small wheels too especially the MK1, will need a remote oil filter for sure as its behind the exhaust manifld, and would be a pain to get to from memory. Especially after doing a custom manifold to get the engine to physically fit [without moving whel bases etc whichis cheating ] as the manifolds stand quite high from the block on the ones i did look at, unsure if they were standard manifolds any way tho., seeng the engine is on the driversdie of the engine bay, some care will have to be taken with space, one advantage with the honda i use is the mods for the bulkhead are behind the passenger seat, i managed to get them all behind my current seats, but unsure if others would be ok.

rear suspension wise should be able to keep mini providing enough room etc, but once my new frame is done and i have developed it a little, this should give alot more room, not just for a honda but for other engines to be tried aswell.

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Phil,
I had a good look at the 4age, all the o/e exhaust manifolds i saw were the same, not only is the oil filter behind it as Neil said but it has to clear the starter too. Thats easily sorted though as some of the c52 g/box's have an alternative hole which puts the starter on the inlet side but you would still need to make a custom manifold to avoid major bulkhead mods. Genuine 4agze's use a similar box to the 3sge which is stronger but bigger and heavier although the c52 box is said to be able handle the extra torque if used with a little care. Gear linkage would be easy if you had an MR2 box as its the right way round and operated by a natty cable setup
Hope this helps

Sounds good then. I'm of the opinion if it'll fit in the front of a Mini, it'll go in the back of a coupe.

I honda is possible in a mini without extending it round nose, is a toyota, as many engine need extending of the front end., i thought the toyota did as do not remeber anyone manging it in a standard round nose front yet.

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I have to be honest from a compact package and the amount of mods required point of view the d16 a7/a9 takes a lot of beating and its also very underated. Its light, revs harder than a 4age, a little more powerfull and cheaper as people can't fit them in a rwd car I'm sure Neil will sing its praises too

ps if i remember correctly its also more torquey than the early 1600 vtec

Yup the D16 was ace.

Its lighter than a B series Vtec, slightly shorter in length [there are D series Vtecs as well] has a little more torque due to its geometry for the 1600, but doesnt rev quite as freely as the B, yet for a standard engine it still does very well, i use to have a shift point of 7200 with my D, std rev limit is 7500, was cracking dunno what the 4 age is i know its quite high too tho being jap.

I do love my D, only reasons for the change was due to future plans, big power is more relaible on the B, parts are easier to source from the states, altho the single cam D is also good the twin cam harder, there is no replacement for displacement. plus a B is easier to tailer the gearbox than the D I found, ratio availability, lsd etc but not impossible. but the B is more expensive initially than the D

thats enough Honda talk for this Toyota subject,

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After a quick conversation in the pub last night it looks like i'm going to be getting a rotty Mr2 for scrap money in a couple of weeks time.

Hopefully that'll stop all this Honda talk.

The idea behind going Toyota is a) To be a bit different, b) So it can be upgraded to either gze or the 20v later on after it's been shaken down, and c) Because it's already mid engined - that's got to help.

There are recent pics on the 16vmini forum of a 20v in a std roundnose tintop in SA. It's tight, but it fits.- With a radiator in there as well.

Must keep my concentration on sorting the bodywork.....

Another convert

That's 2

Aren't Toyota in front of Honda in the manufacutures table aswell

Hi has anyone fitted 4age engine an gear box to a gtm coupe thinkin it may be done by someone?i have a 1300metro mg engine to be fitted but need engine/ rad mount thanks

You mean like this?

If it's a mini one you're wanting there's one laying on my bench Don't think i have the long bolts though, you'll need the alloy spacer block too, not sure on that one.