Hi everyone, as I feel I am getting close to trying to start the engine in my coupe for the first time (it hasn't run for at least 5 years), I was wondering if anyone has any tips or advice for me? I am wondering what would be the best way of filling the cooling system as the radiator doesn't have a filling cap. This an MG Metro 1275 engine. I did borrow my neighbours compression tester and seemed to get a healthy reading on each cylinder, can't remember what it was now but seemed good. I have been wrestling with lumenition aswell- The car has a lumenition control box fitted but since having the engine swapped by the previous owner, had the wrong distributor. I have since sourced the right one to take the optical thing and the chopper. I have it so the chopper is just entering the optical beam when the rotor arm is level with the HT leads. Does this sound right? The lumenition fitting instructions aren't very clear regarding this. Any pointers on setting the static timing?
Thanks in advance

Ed

I'd have thought about 7* btdc should get it running then you can get a light on it, if it kicks back when you're trying to start it then retard it a little Some of the A+ dizzies had some odd advance charactistics if my memory serves me correctly, i'm sure others will enlighten you further

Filling the coolant system can be a bit of an art form. You ideally need a bleed point at the radiator, so that trapped air can be removed. Also having an Allegro thermostat housing helps, as it has a plastic plug which can be removed and used to top the system up. You can also unmount your expansion tank, then hold it above the height of the engine. I've been told hanging it from the garage roof works well. I found with my old Coupe that running the engine with the expansion tank cap off helps with bleeding, topping it up where necessary.

Before starting the engine, ckank it without the dizzy connected, untill the oil pressure build up.

If the engine stood for a long time, it is a good idea to fill the cylinders with diesel oil and let it stang for a while. Then remove the oil from the sump and the bores. It can loosen the surface rust from the bores/pistons.

Take the plugs out when you crank it to build up oil pressure. It'll save the battery.

Thanks.. Anyone know what size socket I need to turn the engine over by hand?
It looks pretty big. The biggest I have is 25mm and it's a bit bigger than that. Also when looking for TDC on pot 1 should I be looking for the rockers to go loose (rocker cover removed of course)?

Ed

Put it into gear and push it arund. Its the easiest way.

To get TDC, remove the no1 spark plug, insert a small screw driver into the hole and rotate the engine until "TDC". There are 2 pistons now at TDC. Check the rockers, as in one cylinder the valves are just overlaping and in one they are shut - thats the place for the spark.

Top gear and to move the engine a little you sort of rock it forwards

It's alive...! After lots of fiddling with the lumenition and the carb I finally got the engine running. Ran it for about 5 seconds then cut it as the cooling system is still empty. Very chuffed with myself! Considering it has no exhaust fitted at the mo, apart from the down pipe, it sounded pretty good. Need to try to flush the cooling system and do an oil change, put some air in the tyres, fit the exhaust and then see if I can get the clutch to work. It's all very exciting.

Oh yeah, where are the jacking points..? Does it have jacking points? I need to get the back end up on axle stands so I can fit the exhaust. Any advice here? Looking at it i fear the front of the car may hit the ground if I raise the back to the height of my axle stands. Oh and another thing- whilst I'm under there I need to fit a new oil seal for the gear selector. I purchased a kit from mini spares for this some time ago. Looks like an O ring and a rubbery sleeve thing from memory. Anyone fitted one of these kits before..?

Ed

Jacking points at rear of sills where the roll bar bolts through - you can't miss them.
Gearchange seal - do it with sump empty obviously. Remove the change mechanism by punching out the roll pin. Using a sharp screwy, prise out the front seal, then prise out the second seal while swearing profusely. Knock in the new ones. Sounds easy, but the 2nd seal is a pig to get at.

Edit: And the rubbery sleeve thingy is just a dust cover - It sounds like you only have the outer seal, and not the inner bush, which will make the seal wear more quickly.

Is this the kit you have http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx? ... ANTI%20O... if not it's the one you want

Thanks chaps, yes that's the kit I have.

The directions are on the link, make sure you grease the o-ring before fitting, job done