Hi guys need to buy replacement master cylinders (brake and clutch) and just wanted to ask if anyone is running the plastic versions rather than the tin ones?

They look taller so worried they might foul the bonnet shutting but they're considerably cheaper than the tin versions

Rob

Hi Rob
I have a plastic clutch cylinder (removed from Twinny Mini last weekend) I'll put it under the bonnet to check the clearance at the weekend as its what I want to use
John

I run the plastic ones and they fit fine

you just need to make sure that the copper pipes have a very flat curve on them or they will hit the bonnet (or 'mk1 version of pipes', as I like to call them!!!)

It needs to bend almost right after the fitting.

The original builder modified the bonnet after it almost rubbed thru the pipe

Or use a banjo fitting?
John

I prefer to have as little joins as possible, so solid pipe to rear subframe, flexi to cylinder.

Thanks everyone

I have big order saved on mini spares but should nail down my engine situation before going ahead. I could just order the cylinders on their own but I'm stingy and don't want to pay delivery costs again if I stick with the a-series and need the rest of the bits on my order.

I'm afraid I have to get me both too, the brake and clutch cilinder.
Both get a bit wet on the top when I have driven it.
I cant really see where the leakage is coming from.
Since a lot of paint around the cannisters fell off I Dont think it is a new issue.
Can I just reuse the connectors?
Tin or plastic cannisters?



Cheers

In my case the tin units are in great looking condition apart from the top which has probably seen a few leaks over the years and that along with water sitting on top and they have pitted then got pinholes in them

I see you have banjo connections they look like a pretty good option in terms of keeping the units overall height down. I haven't ordered my plastic ones yet but I will be doing the order in the next couple of days so when they arrive I can post a side by side picture with the old unit

Thanks

Rob

The plastic filler caps have air vents in them and this can lead to some fluid spilling out if too full.

So I go the two later plastic type replacement master cylinders the other day and set about fitting them . The height wasnt an issue but the actual size of the unit is.

The mounting points are the same but the plastic bodies are larger and have thick joining seams these things combined meant that the existing holes / position of the cylinders is too close together and they cannot sit side by side.

This obviously depends on your car and it's set up but it mesns some new holes for my car

More hole make it lighter

Don't know if it's any help but I used the Metro brake master cylinder on my Rossa and it fouled quite badly on the tin clutch one. Rather than digging yet more holes in the bulkhead I used a tin brake cylinder for the clutch and it just cleared thanks to the different orientation of the tank so that might be true of the plastic ones as well. You can use a brake cylinder for the clutch but not vice versa.

As I can't weld to repair any existing holes is it acceptable to simply lay a new piece of steel or alloy plate over the current holes, run a bead of sealer around then bolt down and re-drill accordingly?

If so will the slight raise in height impact the operation of the clutch and brake pedal?

Thanks

Rob

Hi Rob use the lightest possible sheet metal Ali or steel to close the holes with a sealer, it is just there to stop water dropping on your feet, the thickness of the plate will very slightly have the effect of shortening the clutch and brake master cylinder push rods raising the peddles very slightly, I used to make the peddle longer by adding a curved plate to the peddle face, these could be attached with pop rivets??
John