UNO;
What wheel sizes can all go onto a gtm mk2? i think i have 13s...what else can i stick on there and run comfy?

Two;
How can i stop the car drifting so easy? new back tyres went on and i still managed to loose the back end twice yesterday...as much as i dont mind it so far one day there will be a car next, coming towards or behind me...

three;
How do i stop my windows leaking? sorted my roof with Draft excluder around the roof and windscreen...but windows still letting water in...

fourth;
Electrics...how do i replace them and with what wires? as half my gauges dont work...

Suspension settings


make and break a Coupe and i would imagine a rossa too, what you running?

WEST

I believe the loose rear end can be improved by correct toe in/out settings front and rear.

I have yet to get mine on the limit and have not played with the settings.

Build manual suggests setting ride height first: 5 1/2 inches at front and 5 1/4 at rear.

Toe settings - I have seen 1/16 on each wheel (each individual wheel) suggested as a starting point and then small alterations to taste. The build manual describes a horrendously complicated method using string - any easier solutions from anyone else?

regareds,

Allen

If these had been available when I built my Coupe I might have given them a try for wheel alignment.



They've got to be better than a piece of string.

String never goes out of calibration and the Batteries last a life time

An upgrade on string is fishing line.

Rear Toe has a huge effect on the handling, a word of advice dont put toe out on the rear! instant oversteer and would be quite a handful.

WEST

so adjusting my suspension is the key...

it's running;
high/low suspension, and spax

adjustable shocks

duno what settings its at, but its pretty solid,

I don't think you are understanding us correctly. Unless your dampers are tatered, your suspension components are not the problem. The problem sounds to be which direction your wheels are pointing:

The rear wheels need to point slightly in towards each other at the front - This is called toe-in. It's adjusted by the tie rods that take the place of the steering arms/rack that would be there if the subframe was still in the front of a mini.

The front wheels similarly need to point slightly towards each other at the front.

It's pretty difficult to do accurately using string - you might want to take it for a professional 4-wheel alignment. The lads on here will give you some figures for the amount of toe-in that you need to take with you to give to the mechanic as a bench-mark.

It could also be caused by crappy tyres or wildly incorrect tyre pressures - again the guys on here will give you more of an idea.

Hi Bert,
you need toe in like the guys say. But it has to be done by someone who can do all four wheels. I didn't have access to that so I got a cheap (lidl) laser level for about ten pounds. It was accurate enough for the distances used here but I wouldn't argue if someone suggested i might have been better to pay more for a better one.

Set it against the back wheels and pointed it forward.
Adjust the rear steering arms until the beam touches the front wheels equally on both sides. Point at the bottom of the tyre to reduce error. Unless you have been very clever you cannot rely on this yet for toe in but both sides are equalized.
I then measured a fixed distance back from each back wheel so that i could draw a line on the ground at that distance. Again hold against the wheel and shine backwards onto the new line.
Mark these points on the ground.
If you are good at your maths, and I happen to know that you should be then you should be able to work out a method of calculating toe in by shining the beam forwards another set distance and marking it on the ground and measuring the different widths etc.
But if you have a set of gauges like the tyre fitters tend to have then just make sure you keep checking with the laser against your marks that you have adjusted both sides equally.

Do not jack the car up if you can help it when you adjust any of this. Toe in/out alters as the wheel rises and falls.

Check it again once the car has been driven a while in case the ride height settles. Get this part right and it is a whole different machine.

nah dont know whay ur on about lol

alright allan.

I'll talk to Martin at ayrshire mini metro center...hes getting my mini to sort the engine tunning and timing etc.

i personally dont fancy playing about with things as i still dont feel to confident as every time i play about it doesnt work..

Does anyone have any figures for the toe in? I need to take them to my local specialist as he has no idea of where to start! I know it's rear wheel drive.....but this is ridiculous If anything the wheels are currently toe-out, which makes for some interesting handling

My recomendation for a good safe starting point is 2mm toe in all round on 13 rims with 1.5 neg camber all round.

Then go from there. Currently I am running 1mm toe in all round and liking it, but I have full rod end suspesnion and no rubber bushes giving any compliance, be carful runnign less toe on rubber bushes. and never have toe out on the rear.

West

Thanks. I'll have it set up asap, probably after i sort out the oil and water leaks!