Apart from the engine number, can the age, size, etc on an A series block be determined from the numbers cast into it? Apparently Ford engines can be identified this way but don't know about A series. In case anybody's wondering why I need to know this can I just mention three letters - IVA.......

The only thing i know of is that A+ is after around 79, i'm sure someone can give you the exact year date and time

You can tell the difference by looking at the blocks, not just the numbers.
It's rather complicated to go through all the permutations, but any "anorak" could tell most apart just by looking.

If you gave a bit more detail of what you wanted to know I could be more precise.

PM me if you'd rather!

I need to be able to confirm the age of the engine because it determines the emissions limits that I have to comply with. If I use a later block on my 1990 engine I might have to comply with later (and stricter) requirements. My engine needs reconditioning and I have priced an exchange reconditioned Stage 2 short motor (in bits to build myself) from MiniSport for ca £100 less than I can do it for by getting machining done locally and buying pistons, shells etc. I can take the engine number plate off my engine to put on to the new engine but it will obviously have been disturbed and that might lead to me having to prove that it is the same engine or age. If there is no other way of telling the age of the block I will be fine as they will take my word for it but if it can be proved otherwise I might have a problem and IVA have ways of telling with some manufacturers such as Ford or, if they feel like it, they can put the onus on me. If I fit everything to a younger block it is the block that will be taken as being the engine's age even though it is to 1990 spec. It's all very complicated and on top of that I need to prove to the registration guys that it is the original engine so that I can have an age related plate. Do you ever wish that you hadn't started something................

What I'm about to say assumes we're talking about basically the same size motor ie a 998/998 or 1275/1275 swap not a 998 to 1275 swap.

A 1990 1275 is an A+ block, exactly the same as all later NON INJECTION blocks.


Personally I wouldn't touch MiniSports exchange motors with a barge pole but of course it's your call, I'm sure there are plently of people happy with them, also as it's in bits it's really only a collection of parts not a 'short motor' so don't forget you'll still have a machining bill when you build it, to set everything up properly.


The disturbance will happen with any engine that's been rebuilt, besides why should it be obvious? You can get new plates/rivets if you want.



I would have though any Mini expert faced with a non injection A+ block and an engine number dating to 1990 would happily say it could be a 1990 engine.

Thanks for your reply, Dino - and your time!

My concern is that if I go for IVA with a 1990 spec engine with a block that could be dated as being later the whole engine will be taken as being the age of the block. The block number takes precedence over the engine number - that is fact and told to me by an IVA inspector. However, that obviously is not the case if the block can't be dated from its casting numbers.

I'm intrigued by your comments re MiniSport engines - would you care to explain before go ahead?

Also, what machining do you have in mind when setting up? The MiniSport parts are all matched and balanced ready for assembly. I'm just building an engine for road use and don't plan on going to the lengths necessary for high power units. Maybe I should pay MiniSport to build it which costs £100 for a half engine and £180 for the short motor, the extra being because the short version includes the cam which is fitted using new new timing gears, chain, cover etc.

As far as I'm aware BL never used block numbers as such, there are casting numbers of course but as I said earlier all A+ 1275 blocks are the same, so that should be fine.
I'm also not sure why you think you'll end up using a newer block anyway!

Regarding MiniSport, well I'm just not convinced really, I must admit I was thinking more of a tuned motor though.
There are plenty of mixed comments floating around if you look on the various Mini web sites.

I must say I'm not sure what they mean by a 'stage 2 short engine in bits' to be honest.
Surely it's either a collection of parts, or it's been built? And if they're not even supplying a cam what do they mean by Stage 2?

If it's just the parts you'll have to make sure the deck height is correct, set the end float on the crank and a whole host of other bits.
Have a look here for a good idea of what's needed: http://specialistminiforums.yuku.com/topic/4609

It it's been built and the parts matched - well are they really going to do this then take it apart again??

Whereabouts are you, and would you feel confident building it yourself or are you really looking for something built up?

Anecdotal I know but my one and only dealing with Minisport was when they built me a short engine for racing. It would never hold a head gasket. When I stripped it post season for a rebuild it turned out that the block had been machined with an 0.008" dish in the centre.

I once had a Minisport 1380 which lasted 436miles before a block casting core inset dislodged and chewed up a piston
They replaced the engine no problem

Hi Dino.
What Mini Sport call their half engine kit is block, crank, rods and pistons all matched and balanced and with new cam bearings fitted. This is supplied in bits or ready built and I take your point re deck height. Their short engine is as above but with a fast road cam, new followers and so on. Both are 1293cc. Their block treatment is much better than I can do here in my garage eg: oil galleries are cleaned out and replugged, core plugs removed, cooling jacket cleaned out and new core plugs fitted etc. It's this better finishing that's attracting me, not just the cost saving and also Mini Sport's reputation and experience - I've never come across any bad reports about them before.

I'm quite comfortable building the engine myself having 11 years experience of Minis in my dim and distant youth. I once lived in a flat and bought an Oselli 1045 (bored out 998) which arrived in a tea chest and had to be carried up 5 flights of stairs bit by bit for assembly in the spare bedroom (my wife is very understanding...) and lugged back down when built (easier than carrying it up!) for fitting to the car in a car port in the wettest week I can remember. I have also stripped and rebuilt a Datsun 240Z engine and gearbox and tuned a Subaru to a reliable 385bhp (both cars now gone, unfortunately, but replaced with the Rossa )

I wouldn't intentionally use a younger block but might be supplied with one in the exchange engine hence my query. Thanks for the link - I'll google Mini Sport engines as well.

I always thought Mini Sport had a great reputation.

Unfortunately, I have to say that my own and personal experience of mates engines and gearbox from them is not good.

Just some folks dealing with Minisport . Me I would use MED http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/inde ... t&tid=7612  This thread goes off topic mid thread, but worth reading to the end.

MED are not cheap but they are very good.

They built a race engine for my friend/competitor using a Kent 286 cam and it was faster than my own engine of similar spec apart from my full race Metro Challenge STR 930 cam. (the old 649 cam).

Yup, I can't fault MED. They are a little more pricey, but I think it is well worth it. All the bits I've had from them have never let me down.

(Always handy that they are just down the road from me too! )

I rate MED too and i've always found Steve very helpfull