Hi all, my clutch master cylinder is cream crackered. Is it worth trying to fix it with the repair kits you can get, or am I best off just buying a nice shiny new one from mini spares etc..? Is it a standard mini one or special for the coupe...?
I tried to post this question just now but it didn't seem to work. However it would be typical if i end up posting it twice- appologies if i have.

As always any advice is greatly appreciated.

Ed

Depends on the condition of the cylinder bore really.

If it's scored a repair kit will be a waste of money but if the master cylinder bore is OK a repair kit should do the job.

Hi Eddie.
I couldn't say if it's the Mini Master Cylinder or not but, if it is and you decide to replace the whole thing, Mini Spares are out of stock just now but their price is £67 while Mini Sport charge £78, both plus delivery. I just happen to have a brand new one (that has been polished up ) which I bought from Mini Spares but didn't use and is now surplus to requirements. The part number is AAU4969 and you can see it and find out why it's surplus here my-rossa-project-t485.html . I would sell it to you for £55 including Special Delivery. If you're interested I'd like payment by PayPal or cash only, please.
Raymond.

Raymond, thanks for the kind offer- I may take you up on it in the future if that's ok. I have decided to try the cheaper option of a repair kit first however, and see how that works.

I have the engine running and heat coming out of the heater once it's warmed up which is great, but its still hunting a little and running very rich... I have different thicknesses of flange on inlet and exhaust manifolds and have tried to remedy this with half washers. I suspect I still have a very slight air leak somewhere though. Has anyone any advice on this..? I have heard of folks filing down the inlet manifold flanges to match the exhaust ones... Should I be trying that..?

Ed

No problem - I would do the same

If you have an inlet manifold leak would that not make your engine run too lean due to it receiving air which hasn't been through the carb to pick up some fuel? It sounds more like a carb problem to me.

I agree, for the short time I ran a-series it was running very rich, making it hunt quite badly.

Have a twiddle on the mixture screw to see if it makes any difference(IIRC wind it out), otherwise invest in a new needle.

Turning the mixture screw out to weaken the mixture makes very little difference. If I keep unscrewing it all the way it conks out eventually, but that's after several turns. I have been looking on the mini forum and it seems this is fairly common (the incompatible manifold flanges) and symptom is running v.rich... sounds a bit odd I know but that's what it seems to suggest... I'll have another go at it over the weekend.

Ed

With mine I bought a colourtune - I also had already ground down the manifold so that they were level. My problem was no more than it was seriously over-jetted.

It doesn't seem sensible that a vacc leak would make it run rich.

Have you tried spraying the area liberally with wd40 while it is running? This will quite often momentarily plug any gaps or gets in to the combustion - showing any leaks.

Vacuum leak will make the mixture lean not rich. And only realy affects idle or close idle revs. What makes the whole rpm range rich is when You adjust the mixture right at idle with a leak at the manifold; as then in the upper revs where the leak is not a factor the mixture will be rich.

Have You checked the fuel level? Is the needle valve closing perfectly?

On a LCB manifold the centre branch face sometimes does not sit square to that of the head and it will leak through the top edge, seems to be a common problem with people not tightening them enough and them warping with the heat, mine is the same, however I ground mine down and also used a dab of exhaust cement around the flange. My engine was running badly both rich and lean if thats possible and I found it to be the rubber gasket between the manifold and the carb had hardened over time and cracked and was letting in air.

Fired it up again last night and let it settle and warm up a bit more then before... Still seems a bit rich but perhaps not as bad as I first feared. I tried spraying wd40 around the manifold area but it had no effect on the revs or idle... I think it probably just needs a good tune up by someone who knows how to do it. Are there any decent guides on the net which detail a strip down and basic setup of the SU...? I have been trawling about finding a few things, but nothing basic enough for my level of carb experience...

Ed

Hi Eddie what carb is on your engine. Is it a HIF44 or a HS4. As your problem really does sound like your carb needs resetting/new needle. If its a HS4 try using a AAA needle or if its a HIF44 try a BDL needle as these seem to sort out most problems with mixture. Try these needles with the factory settings with the mixture screw and take it from there. I have used these needles an my minis over the years and they seem to sort out most problems.

Hi Eddie. I bought a cheap Haynes manual that covers 1275 Minis on ebay and there's quite a good section on the carb there. Also, if you can beg, steal or borrow a Colourtune it's a great help in setting the mixture. If you have the HIF44 (float chamber built into the bottom of the carb) the jet height is controlled by a bi-metal strip inside the carb (emissions control rubbish) which alters the jet height and therefore the mixture until the engine is thoroughly warmed up so make sure that it is properly warmed before adjusting it.

I've just had another thought - has the car stood for a long time without being started at any point? When I stripped my carb the amount of corrosion inside it had to be seen to be believed! I really thought that it was a goner but it cleaned up fine and I fitted an overhaul kit from MiniSpares so fingers crossed that it works when I get around to trying to start it sometime in the next year or so

Thanks chaps, I think it is an HIF44. I took the dash pot thing off and cleaned up the cylinder etc. but didn't go any further. The car did stand for about 5 years without running so it probably could do with a clean up. Also the fuel in the tank will be that old, quarter of a tank. I imagine this could affect the running aswell...? If the Haynes manual has a good section on cleaning the carb then I will see if I can find one on ebay.

Ed

Dump the fuel. If it's that old it'll have gone off and turned to Napalm.
When I bought my truck in August, it had only sat for 5 months but wouldn't start because of the fuel, a fresh gallon in there and it was fine.

HIF carb has dashpot built in - underneath the main body of the carb. HF series has the pot hanging out to the side.