Does anyone on here know much about 45 Weber carbs, before I stripped the car for painting I found the engine was very hard to start and seemed to flood itself (wet plugs), I use to (back in the racing days) give one full pump of the accelerator before starting and she would normally fire, but this engine seems to take ages to start. Any clues or suggestions on what to look at. I tried backing off the fuel pressure, turning off the fuel pump, not pumping the accelerator but nothing seems to work. It's worse when it's cold but even once warm it still stuggles.

Have you checked the float level?

David

It's one thing I know nothing about (carbs), how do I do that and what am I looking for

Andy

The float level controls the amount of fuel in the carb - it's a bit like the float valve in your toilet. If it is set too high then you will have an overflow problem. You need to take the top of the carb and then set it at a certain dimension. This then stops fuel being pumped in to the reservoir inside the carb.

Before you start taking the carb apart you need to get a service kit which will include the gasket that seals the top and bottom half. I have a book in my workshop which I shall dig out this evening.

David

I have Limited knowledge of these(45's), and struggled for ages Almost reducing me almost to tears (sad times). I feel your pain chap.
The only advice I can offer is to seek the advice of Southern carb's or your local Rolling road, I know it costs but I'm sure it will help find the cause of the problem.

How to set your float height:

http://www.webcon.co.uk/Downloads/DCOE% ... etting.pdf

Another suggestion before you start pull your carb apart would be to do a plug/lead/cap/arm/coil/points change. If you have a weak spark this would also result in the engine cranking and wet plugs.......

Andy, if your battery is in the front then it may be worth checking for voltage drop, also what loom are you using?

Mr Mac
Thanks for you help I have new plugs, new leads, new cap, new arm, new coil, no points its an Aldon Red/Yellow non vac dizzy with electronic ignition



Tim

Yep battery in front, was thinking that it may be voltage drop earlier on, I changed the starter cable to a serious cable (can't remember what gauge but it significant) to help reduce drop here (initial thoughts were a lazy starter), I may have a similar problem with the coil loom cable, as for loom its the one that was in the car modifided for some additional fixtures, I will be updating this with my own one on rebuilding,

I have a feeling it maybe a combination of a number of problems, older carb not used for a while (I have had it serviced but only I minor service), incorrect float level, lazy starter motor and possibly voltage drop at the coil duing start up.

If it has been sitting with old fuel in it or that has evaporated may have left some sledge behind have seen this clog up a Holley before now causing bad running and difficulty to start. so might be worth a clean out too.

West

Andy to check the coil supply voltage put a decent multimeter from the sw/+ (could be marked with either one)terminal to earth as you (or the missus ) are cranking the engine.

Like you the Weber/Dellorto equipped cars i've had in the past have always started with a couple of pumps and opening the throttle a whisker during cranking, i've never connected the choke cable up

Are you getting a couple of decent squirts of juice as you open the throttle, easily seen as you look down the chokes It should fire on this even it does'nt catch.

Tim,

I will check the voltage when its all connected back up, yeah I was surprised with the amount of time it took to fire, I will check it all when I put it back together, I was just looking for some dvise in the mean time, thanks for all your comments.

It's not really a big deal to take the top off the carb and have a look inside it - it's much easier than it looks and I've done it loads of times without having to replace a gasket. Also, with it having a shared float chamber you can remove the jets etc one at a time to check that they're clean and still have another set on the other side to check how they go back if you need to. When I stripped my HIF44 SU down it had sat for ages and the amount of corrosion inside it was unbelievable but it all cleaned off easily enough. If you need a manual Haynes do a good one with all the usual exploded diagrams.

Andy

Do you still need me to scan the manual?

David

David,

No I actually went out a brought a full copy, but thanks anyway