Hi chaps, a couple of issues to tell you about with the coupe...
Firstly I think my clutch is seized. I have replaced the master and slave cylinders, done a bit of a DIY bleed job and have the clutch lever moving quite a way when the pedal is depressed, but still cannot engage gears without grinding. The lever does not return very willingly when the pedal is released however. Should there be a spring on the outside of the engine casing to make the lever return, or should the clutch itself be springy enough to push the slave back in- if so will this be the case when/if I manage to free the clutch off...?
Secondly when the car is in gear with the engine running only the drivers side wheel spins properly. The other one creeps along in the same direction, occasionally speeding up a bit, occasionally stopping altogether. With the engine off i can spin either wheel, but the other one doesn't react the way I would expect- I thought they would spin at equal speeds in the opposite direction...? But most worryingly there is an intermittent loud knocking and banging emanating from the passenger side of the engine, and the wheel appears to be knocking and jumping about. I first thought it might be loose wheel nuts but it's not and seems more serious than that. This is only intermittent however. Could it be engine mounts, something to do with the clutch seized or knackered gearbox/diff...? I can select all the gears ok.
Apologies for the rambling post but as usual any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Ed

The one wheel spinning is normal due to the differential. Only a LSD will spin both.

The knocking sound I m guessing your running it in gear with the suspension at full droop chassis on axle stands?, sound like one of the cv joints is raching its limit of travel possibly. are the rebound rubbers in good condition.


There should be a return spring on the top of the arm if its a non verto clutch. is the arm/spigot in good condition and lubed might just be dry my mini did this the clutch stayied down a quick lube as it had dried out and normal operation was restored.

West

Sounds to me like your clutch friction plate has stuck to your flywheel - which happens sometimes if an engine has stood for a while. Proper fix is to take it apart and clean. Cowboy fix is to securely chock all wheels, start engine, rev it a bit, then turn off engine. As the engine runs down to stop, force the gears into first, and usually it'll shock the plate free.

An even more risky Cowboy way, is to get someone to jack the rear wheels up, while you sit inside with the clutch pedal depressed.

Start the engine running, and with the wheels spinning, quickly drop the car down on the jack.

Just make sure you have a long enough, uphill drive, if you do this.

Thanks. I was wondering if it might be something to do with the CV joint reaching the end of its travel aswell... It is on axle stands as you describe...
I hope it is something simple and harmless like this. Regarding the clutch I remember trying the cowboy method described by Ken on a mk.1 cortina many years ago, but without success.
I plan to try driving it out of my garage and going hard on the brakes, then flooring it, and braking again kangaroo style to try and free it off that way. Letting it warm up first.. If all this doesn't work how heavy a job is it to take it apart and free it off...? I'm assuming it isn't an engine out job...?

Ed

It would likely be an engine out job as IIRC the flywheel needs to come off.
Might be a bit different if you have a verto clutch tho.
The cowboy method should work better than on a Cortina as GTM has loads more grip.

Before getting quite that cowboy try getting it warm by running in neutral then switch it off, depress the clutch and put it in gear. Keeping the clutch down start the engine. Be ready if it starts and sets off. You can also remove the king lead so that it won't start and try a few times down the length of a normal driveway.

Iain

So I got the coupe down off the axle stands, stuck it in reverse and backed it out of the garage on the starter with the clutch fully depressed, but the clutch did not free itself. Then i fired it up and let it warm up and tried again- forcing it into gear etc. Still no joy. Pah..! I'm wondering/hoping it might be that the clutch is not adjusted correctly and that with the pedal depressed and the lever all the way out it's not pushing the clutch in far enough... Is the rod that goes into the slave adjustable..? Is it possible to push the clutch in too far and do internal damage or will it just reach a point where it will go no further...?

As usual any advice or encouragement will be gratefully received. It's not only the clutch pedal that's getting depressed here...!

Ed

The clutch arms do bend. I had to get a new one for mine, as the one I had was bent the other side of the pivot from the cylinder. It would be worth checking, if for no other reason than to rule it out.

Ed

I'm not aware of there being any adjustment on hydraulic clutches - typically you would size the master cylinder to provide and appropriate movement on the slave cylinder. Is the slave cylinder engaging correctly?

It's looking like you are going to have to get brutal on it or take it apart.......

Have you tried to bump start it, I've done this to free of clutches before without any damage.

Regards

David

Have you had the clutch are off the car and inspected the ball and cup at the end? My brothers mini started to be a right pain to get into gear first fix was to move the floor mat hindering the movement of the pedal this got him going again for a bit, when we had a prober look it had worn the clutch pedal clevis pin, on inspection of the arm itself that too was worn along with all the pins that held it on and the push rod. replacved with new and the clutch became alot better. check for worn parts its easy, and safer than trying to bump it free when in actual fact its not a stuck disc thats the problem.

West

I think I will try extending the rod that goes into the slave cylinder. Perhaps the main lever is bent as was suggested earlier...? I don't suspect the problem to be at the pedal end as I cleaned the pedal assembly up when I replaced the master cylinder.

Ed

I would think you may have to strip and inspect the components one by one

In the past I have seen on a Mini, and have had this problem on one of my Coupe's.

It was tracked down to the clutch arm, the ball end of the arm's wear out as WEST suggested, BUT..... sometimes they SNAP OFF when you operate the clutch all looks fine from the out side (esspecially if you have no lock nut ala Miglia's) "But" the ball end isn't pushing the thrust barrel/plunger against the plate, please check that the throw out stop is moving in and out up against the clutch cover proving that there is still a ball end on the arm /then check the ball end's condtion on the clutch arm.

sorry for repeating this post