Ok, so it has been suggested that I have a verto clutch but pre verto arm etc (thanks to Pantera). So I'm trying to get the flywheel cover (wok) off to have a look inside. I have managed to get all but 2 bolts out so far- 7 O'clock and 9 O'clock if you see what I mean. But I am struggling to get the last two out. Any hints here...? I am wondering if the engine can be moved to the left an inch or so to enable me to get at them....
I am determined to do this without getting the engine out.

Ed

Put a lifter under the engine. Undo the engine mount. Lift the engine a bit. It will gibe enough space.

But the worst is still ahead: do You think You will have enough space to operate the puller? Verto cluches can be HARD to get off...

Thanks Camelot, I am hoping I won't have to use a puller... I am hoping to just replace the release bearing, plunger and arm, providing the hunch is right about the parts being incompatible.

Ed

I hope it will work.

I had once an mkII mini and experienced a clutch problem. Getting the engine out fitted with a remote box is the hardest thing next to impossible. Soo I have done the clutch job with the engine in the car. It was horror .

You're right about verto flywheels being difficult to remove
First time I tried to get mine off my Mini, I broke two pullers, tried heat, hammers etc...
....eventually had to use an angle grinder to cut the flywheel off
[The Mini was only 1 year old but the flywheel had welded itself to the taper on the crank]

Me too. I had to cut a Verto flywheel off with an angle grinder

I wasn't welded on and the crank taper was fine once I got it off. It's just that there's nowhere to give the flywheel a good thump once you get tension on it with the puller.

I rebuilt the motor with an earlier solid flywheel and clutch.

Welded flywheels to cranks was very common, the steel that was used to build the UK flywheels especially the lightened versions was s*it to say the least and for some reason the different metals (flywheel/crank) welded themselves together, I'm not sure if they have improved but I know all the racers over here use the aluminium ones cause they won't lock up. Back in NZ we imported a lot of these lightened flywheels across for racing but after finding out the hard way and destroying both an expensive flywheel and crank (billet) we built our own. I have one in mine and its a work of art, lighter than any on the market here and stronger. As for the puller, I have 2 types the big old 3 fingered one with the large central bolt and (the better) hydraluic one, nothing gets past the hydraulic one. The 2 bolts you can't reach are a pain in the arse, lifting the motor is the only way, when you put it back together leave these bolts out, we all did racing so it made the job easier next time.

Here's a couple of pics

WONDERFULL.

Right, I've got the wok off... Here are some pictures of what can be seen. I want to know if I need the verto release bearing and shorter arm etc to operate this setup. Can anyone identify the release bearing I have currently...?

That's a verto setup - so it should have the short arm etc.
It is a verto release bearing you have there.

I agree.

Thanks chaps...I have ordered a short arm and associated bracket plus new release bearing today. I'll throw it on and hope for the best... What's the betting the clutch is seized and I'll have to get the clutch out anyway.... I can't believe it could be something as simple as the wrong arm...

Ed

It can be the wrong arm. Be positive .