Hey all,

I wonder if someone could give me some pointers as to how to set up the castor angle on my coupe accurately. I've got adjustable tie-bars to the front of the subframe, but I'd like some practical advice as to how to get the angle between the ball-joints accurately

Thanks in advance

Joel

You can get a plumb line castor/camber board from Minispares, it takes a bit of getting used to but is ok. Alternatively a decent tyre centre should be able to do it. I did invest in a of set Dunlop bubble guages from Evilbay, old skool but still very accurate.

Thanks for that Tim, I was hoping there would be a more DIY method… without spending £50 on a plumb line basically…

Cheers mate

Wel, there's always the very cheap method. ...
Set the tie bars to standard length and then adjust to taste. (both sides equally of course)
Caster is of course a personal thing - there is no 'correct' setting.

What's a standard length tie bar… from the bottom tie bar bolt to the subframe would be the best measurement I guess… anyone know?

I could model it in Cad and give a series of lengths relating to degrees of castor, would make comparing setups easier between us than just doing it by feel

A standard tie rod is 14.5" from the centre of the bolt hole to the front of the welded on circular washer which locates the tie rod rubber bush.

I've found that 14.5" - 15" approx 3deg positive (std mini) on the front is where my car handles the best, anymore and it was very nervous on the road, possibly ok for the track but wandered all over the road with more.

I've used the rear caster adjustment to take out any minute wheel base issues out to affect crabbing, this apart from anything made the most difference to me when I was trialling the setups. My car was not out by much maybe 3mm but it was a significant difference when this was brought back to zero.

I'm running 3mm (total) toe out on the front, and 2mm (total) toe in on the rear, I found that I was getting a slight toe out on bump so it was making the rear steer and was not plesent to drive.

I'm running 1.5 deg neg camber on the front and 1 deg neg on the rear, again for the road this seems enough,

I have found that my car under push understeers a little but a slight lift off and a boot full alows the rear to compensate with oversteer, much more fun.

I use the old stringline method to set mine up along with a sprit level and a bit of trig maths will allow you to figure out your deg measurements.

Joel,
I have a Minispares plumbline castor/camber board which is surplus, £25 if it's of any use to you. I'm hoping to make MITP next Sunday

Thanks for the offer Tim, I'd happily pay that, but I'm not sure when we'd be able to meet up.

I'm away at a music festival next weekend, so wouldn't be able to make it.

I live in North Devon, where are you based?

And thanks for the setup advice Andy, so think the standard tie-bar length is best, the rear of my car is all rose-jointed, so I've got a lot of adjustability to play with

Joel

Joel,

It's personal preference, you can start there and work on that arangement.

Joel,
I'm in Suffolk I could post, £5 should cover it. Could'nt find the instructions so i got Minispares to attach them to an email so easily forwarded if you want it.

Tim

Thanks for the offer Tim, I'm just sorting out my brakes at the moment, so I might get back to you when it comes to reassemble everything

Could you email me the instructions that you were sent? joel.esson(at)gmail.com

Cheers Mate

Joel

You should have email.