Morning all, right I have just taken delivery of some HiLos and adjustable lower arms to fit onto the rear end of my coupe.
It already had HiLos fitted to the front when I got it. I have since fitted adjustable arms and tie rods etc.
Anyway I have got hold of a metric cone compressor, but guess what..? It doesn't seem to fit. Does this mean my cones are pre 1976...? Surely not...! Either that or the threads are stripped, or just coroded to a point where the thread cannot get a hold. As usual I can't really see the thread in question as it's inside a little hole. Is there a way of telling imperial from metric cone threads aside from forcing and possibly making things worse...? Oh apart from the obvious- buying an imperial compressor. I'd like to try to be certain I need one before buying.

I've been putting this job off for ages fearing it would be a pain in the backside.
Any help appreciated...

Ed

The metric size is (I think) a 14mm thread and the imperial version is 1/2" UNF so there's a fair bit of difference in size. If you can find some rod or dowel around 7/16" or 11mm and it just fits into the hole then you've got an imperial thread.

Excellent....! thanks.

yes i can confirm metric is 14mm

I made my own compressor

Neil

Thanks, so to confirm- as I look down through the top hole I can see a gap of about half an inch, then a plate with a hole in it. Is this the threaded hole or should the rod pass through this a bit further, if you see what I mean...?

Further, the thread is at the bottom of the cone, otherwise you could'nt compress it.

Thanks Tim, must be an imperial one then. How annoying...!
Does anyone have any experience of the benefits of replacing tired old cones for new ones on the rear of a coupe with standard mini suspension...? I am womdering wether to stick with the old ones or replace..? Are the ride and handling improved much..?

Ed

At the front end tired old cones may be OK but at the back end where all the weight is I think you would notice an improvement.

You can remove the old ones without a compressor if you're careful.

You have to take out the top suspension arm to do it though.

Split the top ball joint so that the arm can fall to full droop then take out the pivot pin and you should be able to remove the arm followed by the cone and spring.

If you wind the hi-lo's to their shortest setting you may get them back in the same way but I haven't tried that.

Don't forget to remove the little rebound buffer as well.

I replaced the rubber cones on my track car with coil springs, much better.

David

Sorry. I forgot about that.

Has anyone tied the different grades of cone that are available now?
The Minispares Competition cones or the Moulton smootherides for eg.

If you have hi-lo's to fit anyway it's probably far easier to simply smash the ally trumpets in order to get the old cone out. Generally cutting through it with a hacksaw blade to about halfway and then a cold chisel and lump hammer is the fastest way. Quite often you'll find that with an old cone there is very little tension in the system with the suspension on full droop but be careful. You can get an idea by lifting the hub by hand with the car up on a stand and the wheel off - usually you can move it on the spring with very little effort so you know there's not much stored energy. Removing the rebound rubber can often even result in play so you know there is no tension in there.

Iain

Just a quick update... I have completed one side. The cone was so corroded on the inside where the threaded part should be that it was missing completely. I cut through the old trumpet with a junior hacksaw and got it out with a crow bar. Wasn't too bad in the end. I have made a start on the other side but am having trouble getting the lower arm out as the bushes are seized on the pin. Currently soaking in wd40.
I opted for standard cones as a replacement. I would like to try some springs but cannot afford them.

Ed