Perfect, as I was looking at using a S1 Elise set up but they are a tad pricey and your solution may be a lot more cost effective.


J

I still need to make something to go over it

Looks like a cheeky arduino project. I still have not done mine yet. Custom board too very did you make the PCB yourself?


Neil

hi
this is my attempt to make a speedo calibrator using a arudino
I used http://fritzing.org/home/ to make the board it work very well.
I have made boards by hand in the past but this did a much better job



all I have to do is write a program for it

this speedo is getting a bit technical



I have put the car up on axle stands so the wheels can spin. then I used a laptop with a data logger to find out what signal you get from the gearbox
I all so need to find out how many inputs from the gearbox you get to the times the wheel rotate once using a magnet and a reed switch

Here is the data from the datalog




All I have to do is work out what this means
it looks like I get a 5v output from the gearbox which means I have to change my bord 0v (ground) input to a 5v input

5v sounds perfectly reasonable to me for a speed pulse output.

From memory the Honda setup is a trigger that is driven by a gear and worm gear off the diff, now the PG1 is basically a mirror image of the Honda box. Massive assumption here it may be around 4 pulses per revolution as on a Honda it is just over 4 pulse per rev.

Neil

thanks neil the speedo bored is now on hold for now
I was going to do something about the black wheel arches
but I have found that the wheels rubs on the roll bar when
on full steering lock not good



this is a link for a video this shows what happens when on full lock
I hope this link works
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VOOLuw ... p=drivesdk

I think the essay way round this is to use a wheel spacer
It needs to be 10mm

hi all

I thought this was going to be easy just put some 10mm wheel spacers on I do not like them and I can't find any with longer studs

I think I have two ARB that look like the bottom ones in the photo



it's not bent the same at the end that is why it hits so I was going to fit the one that came with my mgf subframe it looks like the one in the top of the photo
nope that did not work the steering rack is in the way its the one for the back that came with the engine I could fit it so It faces forward and across the centre of the subframe



like this in the photo but I have the radiator pipes in the way
I will have to see if this will work if not its back to wheel spacers

Paul,

That Subframe was a bstrd to build but fun none-the-less and was the standard MGTF set up, but the MGF is essentially the same when it comes to the ARB.

The heater pipes were potentially an issue, but I remembered parts I used in work a long time ago and had made spacers between the ARB and heater tubes using Stauff clamps (http://www.stauff.co.uk/products/pipe-clamps.aspx), which are used on industrial clean room installations. They worked a treat but they were in the boxes of bits when I sold the K3; otherwise, I would have sent them to you - I’m sure you can knock up something similar.



J.

thanks jaybee it looks like it will work I no what you used

I keep finding more work looking at the two radiator pips that run a long the bottom of the car.
it looks like they have been hiting the road and are all dented.
I will have to take them of and see how bad they are and see is i need some new ones

I have found a fix for my ARB hitting the wheels when on full lock, in the end, I made a new bracket and moved the ARB forward
and when change over to the Coil-overs brackets from peter they should still miss the ARB