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Libra rear suspension 
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Post Libra rear suspension
Please can anyone let me know what the rear suspension ball joints are from on the old type suspension as I need to replace them as rubbers perished.Thanks Matty


Sun Mar 22, 2009 12:05 pm
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Post Re: Libra rear suspension
The rear ball joints are indeed Land Rover steering joints, but not made by Land Rover.

Early kits where supplied with genuine LR parts but we very quickly found they were absolute Toffee. They where still using 1940's technology with a spring loaded ball sitting in a coned socket. Lots of movement and noise. So stay way clear of genuine Land Rover ball joints.

We then changed to Quintin Hazell who used the latest technology with a ball enclosed in a nylon socket. However unfortunately these didn't last much longer than the Land Rover ones.

In the end we found ball joints manufactured by FAI where the best which had a much larger ball and nylon socket. These had a larger bearing surface area and hence better wear properties.

Original post from Bryn


Sun Mar 22, 2009 1:53 pm
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Post Re: Libra rear suspension
Thanks for the advise on the best units to go for, please can you give me anymore info on exactly what they are for or part number. Thanks Matty


Sun Mar 22, 2009 9:52 pm
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Post Re: Libra rear suspension
Again from Bryn


Found the FAI Catalogue on their site with the following info.

Land Rover Rod End, Right Hand Thread, fitted to following models.
Range Rover 1970 to 1994
Discovery 1989 to 1999
90/110/Defender 1984 to date.

FAI part No. is SS356
Rover/Unipart No. is RTC5869

The trailing arm rod ends are Landrover track rod ends. Do not buy genuine Landrover ones as we found these were Toffee. The ones we found that lasted the longest where from FAI Automotive. http://www.faiauto.com/

The rear track rods are one standard Metro track rod end and one standard Peugeot 205 track rod end. Both right hand thread if I remember correctly. The Peugeot one was chosen for its long pin.


Sun Mar 22, 2009 10:01 pm
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Post Re: Libra rear suspension
Thanks again Roger. Only just bought my Libra and I am still learning all about the ins and outs of them.
Hope to have all the work done for Stoneliegh including engine conversion.


Sun Mar 22, 2009 10:48 pm
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Post Re: Libra rear suspension
Thanks for this info Roger - MOT tester found some play in mine yesterday - not a fail but I'll be changing them. The play looked quite a bit to me so I was surprised he only advised it. Only on the left bottom trailing arm. Might explain why I only spin on right handers!


Sun May 29, 2016 7:46 am
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Post Re: Libra rear suspension
I ordered a set of 8 FAI SS356 and they have come today except the ones they have sent are Quinton Hazell QR2229S. Based on the reference from Bryn that Roger posted it would appear that these may not last. I'm also a bit concerned because the QH ones have grease nipples. This might be fine on a landrover but not sure if these would be accessible on the GTM trailing arms?

Has anyone got any recent experience of the QH ones? Just deciding how much fuss to make. Also, the QH ones seem to sell for quite a bit more than what the seller was charging for the FAI ones they listed and even if they give me a refund I can't find the FAI ones listed elsewhere at a reasonable price (one ebay seller has them but only 2nr) - I guess not many people stock 8!


Wed Jun 01, 2016 7:34 pm
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Post Re: Libra rear suspension
Hi Sanz,

I've looked into this before and the recommendation seems to be to go for the FAI part over the QH as they are a better quality / more robust item. The QH ones are rated as better than LR originals but not as good as the FAI, I'd send them back and change them if you can.

Incidentally, from the threads I've looked through it seems that the two lower inside joints are the ones that take most of the punishment so if you can only get two FAI's for now I'd put them in these locations.


Wed Jun 01, 2016 7:50 pm
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Post Re: Libra rear suspension
I wouldn't have thought there was so much difference in the design of the same replacement parts

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Thu Jun 02, 2016 1:04 am
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Post Re: Libra rear suspension
There was quite a lot of thought put into this on the TeamGTM site in the past and Bryn D (the suspension designer) stated that the FAI part was the best, not a lot of love for the QH part.
I expect the differences are slight in reality but worth seeking out the best part for this joint I'd of thought as its the known weakness of the original suspension set up.

I agree though that you wouldn't think there was that much difference between similar parts designed to do the same job - its my experience that this isn't always the case however based on some absolute shite track rod ends I bought from Euro Car Parts once :roll:


Thu Jun 02, 2016 8:33 pm
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Post Re: Libra rear suspension
The supplier has agreed to change them for FAI ones and has sent me a returns label to send back the QH ones. They said they sent the QH ones 'cos they had plenty in stock but only 2 FAI so thought I'd rather have all the same and not have to wait for stock to come in. After I explained the reasons they offered to change them with no quibble, just need to wait a couple of days for them to get more stock of FAI. As such I have no hesitation in recommending this supplier: http://www.europarts-motorfactors.com/ - note that this is completely different form euro car parts.


Fri Jun 03, 2016 8:38 am
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Post Re: Libra rear suspension
The FAI TRE's have come today so I need to get around to fixing them soon. Looks like it should be relatively straightforward - I'm hoping just removing the road wheels and slackening off the springs should give enough wriggle room to get them off/back on. I'm hoping just measuring the distance from ball centre to lock nut should preserve the geometry. Looks a bit tight to get the ball joint splitter in the bracket though.

Anyone done this (changed all 8 joints on the rear trailing arms, land rover track rod end type) and got any top tips that I should know before I start?


Tue Jun 07, 2016 8:54 pm
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Post Re: Libra rear suspension
If I were you, i'd disconnect the arms from the top/bottom hub BJs, bottom of the shock and steering rod (that's like 4 nuts total) plus any clips holding pipes/cable to the arms and remove the arms altogether. Will make the job much easier in the end.

Measure from nut face to centre BJ as you say should preserve the geometry.

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Wed Jun 08, 2016 10:28 am
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Post Re: Libra rear suspension
Hello! Absolutely love my recent purchase of a Libra- but she's an MOT failure especially ball joints, so thought I'd try summarise everything before purchasing the bits. Would really appreciate any help. It's Mk1 rear suspension I believe (Not Z car etc), so has the eight ball joints arrangement at the bulkhead, shown in the attached pic (hope it works).

So, as circled in the picture:

RED= Land Rover, part number SS356 x8
(Shown as No. T0307 on the original GTM build drawings).

GREEN/BLUE track rod ends = Metro Part No. SS818 x1 (T0310 on build drawings).
And Peugeot = SS451 x1 (T0311 on build drawings). Not sure which one is which??

Finally, yellow I haven't worked out yet- does anyone know where these come from?

Hopefully an easy bolt on, bolt off job but any advice appreciated- as the rear suspension arms seem impossible to replace I think I'll be removing them, repowder coating and so replacing all the joints whilst I'm at it.

Any upgrade ideas always appreciated.

Many thanks, Jim.


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Wed Aug 03, 2016 9:45 pm
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Post Re: Libra rear suspension
I did a track day Monday so was had an incentive to fix the dodgy joint beforehand. Did it on Friday night although just the two joints on the one trailing arm (N/S bottom) as I was short of time.
As it turned out the old joint was actually fine, no play in the joint itself, just the nut wasn't done up beyond where the nyloc starts to bite. Whoever fitted it must have had the taper slip and then no friction to tighten or loosen it so just left it :shock:
The joint was just rocking in the taper and had worn a groove in the male taper and squashed the thread. There was a lot of slack due to the joint moving around! It was a b*gger to undo the nut - had to use a long bar and spacer to lever the taper in to get some grip but got it off okay.

To get the inner joint out of the trailing arm I had to take the whole arm off and hold the TRE in the vice as there was no way it was turning otherwise but again, got there in the end.

The FAI ones are so easy to install with the hex socket as there is no worry about the taper slipping.

The difference on the track was unbelievable - so much more confidence in the handling and able to lean on it much more, in fact I need to grow bigger balls as I didn't have the guts to push it hard enough after the spins I used to have before!!


Wed Aug 17, 2016 1:26 pm
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