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Just Got Myself A 1995 1.4 Twin Cam K3 
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Post Re: Just Got Myself A 1995 1.4 Twin Cam K3
catsam wrote:
hi i would go with
Quote:
* Buy a MGF rear subframe and use with individualised hydragas spheres, keeping hubs, etc as I really want a proper handbrake
* as above, but use PEEPS, fantastic coil over mount brackets


you can then get of the shelf coil over parts and have a proper handbrake


I am now thinking about making a hybrid set up, using F hubs etc on the TF frame and the only mod I would have to make is get a pair of trailing rod brackets and weld them on :idea:

Maybe/maybe not!


J.


Sun Apr 01, 2018 9:03 am
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Post Re: Just Got Myself A 1995 1.4 Twin Cam K3
I am now seriously considering using the TF frame, with F hubs, tie arms etc, but I need to get a pair, or make a pair of tie rod brackets that fit near the front mounts - Has any one got a frame that could copy them for me in card, or an old frame that they could cut them off?


J.


Fri Apr 06, 2018 9:23 pm
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Post Re: Just Got Myself A 1995 1.4 Twin Cam K3
Well, a week has passed and I have managed to get the brackets, MGF rear tie bars with lower arms and rear hub arm, which all marries up nicely to the MGTF hubs, upper arms and damper assemblies, so I’ve some fettling to do before I get the tie arm brackets welded onto the TF frame then off it goes to the powdercoaters for blasting, galvanising and powder coating.

In addition to this, I got a full set of post 2005 soft ride dampers and springs, which should be a good start, fitted the front pair this morning and they are a wee bit more compliant than the ones fitted from a 2002 that I had.

I’ve been out most of the day getting the rear clam off, removing all necessary electrics, plumbing and everything else I need to start pulling out the rear Metro subframe, BUT, I have been scuppered by the 6 no bolts that hold on the frame mounts to the rear of the tub and Sod’s law dictates that my grinder goes tits up when I most need it :evil:

One thing that has annoyed me about the tub, is that all subframe bolts front/rear are almost inaccessible inside and no amount of contorting or using a multitude of spanners in various lengths will catch the heads enough, nor will mole grips, as they just release when under tension - I am using good quality tools, so it’s not them, it the design of the tub that is doing my head in.

A quick Q on gearboxes - does the PG1 from a MGF or TF slot straight onto the Metro 1.4 block and is the cables for shifting a better proposition than the GTM rods set up?



J.


Sun Apr 15, 2018 7:53 pm
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Post Re: Just Got Myself A 1995 1.4 Twin Cam K3
As far as I know the gearboxes are interchangeable on the block. I think the block castings of K series are pretty much the same regardless of the capacity, just different liners and crank throws, so the bell housing bolt arrangement should be the same.

I much prefer the MGF cable change on my Spyder over the rods that were on when I bought it.

Note that MGF gearboxes tend to have the bell crank short cable lever facing backwards but on TF'd they face forwards so there is about 3" difference in the length of the short cable - worth bearing in mind if the cable run is a bit tight - on mine the longer MGF cable is about right with the TF bell crank. A TF cable won't reach a TF bell crank and the F cable won't reach a F bell crank. Might be different on a K3 though.

If you are buying a PG1 check out the final drive ratios e.g. C6BP or C4BP. the "6" comes from the 1.6 and 1.8i MGF's and TF's, the "4" version is from VVC engined cars and actually has a lower final drive ratio so lower gearing generally to suit the higher red line. There are also a wide range of speedo drive ratios but I think these are swapable. I used the the speedo drive from my original R65 box on my PG1.

http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group1/info/Gearbox_numbers/index.htm


Sun Apr 15, 2018 8:13 pm
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Post Re: Just Got Myself A 1995 1.4 Twin Cam K3
hi i found this on the net
http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8625

Gearboxes
There are two main types of gearboxes used on k series engines these are the r65 and the PG1. The PG1 is a superior gearbox in that it is very strong (some T16 turbos running 600bhp+!), there is a good range of ratios available and LSDs are cheap, the R65 however is lighter and smaller and is already geared for 13” wheels (if from the metro). The PG1 is only fitted to 1.8 16v and 1.8 vvc engines and the r65 is fitted to all others. There are different ratios available for the PG1 gearbox and all internal parts are swappable with other pg1 gearboxes (as fitted to T series and L series engines). LSDs are also useable from the t series turbo cars and are a straight swap. The pg1 uses a unique starter motor and flywheel/clutch to the r65 and cannot be swapped either way. The PG1 can be fitted to the 1.4 and 1.6 engines but must be fitted with the pg1 flywheel and starter from a 1.8 engine .

i prefer the cable change on my k3 I have taken out the 1.6 with a r65 box and rods and put in a pg1 box in .
so you would have to change the flywheel and starter if you keep the 1.4 you have

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Sun Apr 15, 2018 9:39 pm
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GTM Nirvana
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Post Re: Just Got Myself A 1995 1.4 Twin Cam K3
I might have a spare 1.8 flywheel in the shed somewhere. I didn't read that 16v mini article but it might be worth checking what the ECU implications are as the crank sensor takes a pickup off the flywheel so the 1.4 ECU could potentially need different sensor pickups. I'm pretty sure I don't have a spare starter though.

I've also got the flywheel that allows a VVC to fit onto a R65 box if anyone needs one of those.


Mon Apr 16, 2018 8:03 pm
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Post Re: Just Got Myself A 1995 1.4 Twin Cam K3
Well a number of weeks have passed since my last post and all I’ve done is fanny about trying to remove siezed or inaccessible rear subframe mounts and guess what - I’ve got the whole bloody rear end off and this will now allow me to fit up the TF rear frame to see what brackets need to be made to fit the GTM torque tubes before it all goes off for blasting and powder coating.

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I am looking at fitting MGF handbrake cables when I install the TF rear set up and was wondering what modifications needed to be done to ensure the outer sleeves can be fixed in the cabin, as the Metro set up,I have is a single cable, whilst the MGF/TF is twin.


J.


Sun Apr 29, 2018 6:44 pm
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Post Re: Just Got Myself A 1995 1.4 Twin Cam K3
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Sun Apr 29, 2018 7:35 pm
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Post Re: Just Got Myself A 1995 1.4 Twin Cam K3
catsam wrote:
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Paul, you are a superstar!


J.


Sun Apr 29, 2018 7:53 pm
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Post Re: Just Got Myself A 1995 1.4 Twin Cam K3
Well, whilst everyone is on jollies this weekend due to the magnificent weather, this silly sod has been beavering away somewhat and has achieved the following;

* Completely dismantled the engine and gearbox to enable the removal of it all from the Metro subframe, which is a rusty as feck and every bolt was bloody seized solid, then took to the recycling centre much to the amusement of the guys working there, as I struggled to lift the bugger over a 4 foot high barrier

* trimmed the TF subframe to enable fitment onto the existing holes in the tub, then proceeded to fit, butchering the GTM modified hydragas coverplates to allow me to line up the subframe correctly

* spend 4 hours staring at the strut towers on the TF frame to try figure out how to mount the torque tubes - I’m still none the wiser, so here’s some photos as the beers are calling me............

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Any suggestions how to fix the torque tube to the TF frame, as I’m now thinking about shortening it and welding the tube straight onto the strut tower, rather than have a bolted mount!


J.


Mon May 07, 2018 6:07 pm
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Post Re: Just Got Myself A 1995 1.4 Twin Cam K3
I think I would put the engine and box of choice back in to get an idea of what space you have to play with. Then I would look at how to put the tubes in.
Here are some thoughts.
Simplest would be to cut, fit and weld to the suspension tower. This would be nice and easy but you are then dealing with a fixed obstacle that may at some point get in the way. The only way to be certain would be to put the engine and box back in.

If you want to retain the ability to remove the tubes, if it makes other tasks easier, my next thought would be to weld a plate onto the suspension tower and a new plate to the tube which can then be bolted together.
Still reasonably simple to do.

Love what you are doing I really must make a start on mine.


Tue May 08, 2018 3:19 pm
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Post Re: Just Got Myself A 1995 1.4 Twin Cam K3
nice work it took some time to work out what you had done then it dawned on me :roll:

Quote:
Any suggestions how to fix the torque tube to the TF frame, as I’m now thinking about shortening it and welding the tube straight onto the strut tower, rather than have a bolted mount!



i would see if you could weld the old metro bracket to the the new mgft tower. you may have to shorten the tube
but i dont see why welding it straight to the tower would not work unless you need it to pivot but it would still mover with the bushing at the top

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Sat May 12, 2018 12:50 pm
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Post Re: Just Got Myself A 1995 1.4 Twin Cam K3
catsam wrote:
nice work it took some time to work out what you had done then it dawned on me :roll:

Quote:
Any suggestions how to fix the torque tube to the TF frame, as I’m now thinking about shortening it and welding the tube straight onto the strut tower, rather than have a bolted mount!



i would see if you could weld the old metro bracket to the the new mgft tower. you may have to shorten the tube
but i dont see why welding it straight to the tower would not work unless you need it to pivot but it would still mover with the bushing at the top


Paul.

The springs and dampers stick out too far for me to mount the torque tubes in the correct plane, so I’ve either got to reinforce half of the shock tower, shorten/shape the tube and weld all together or fabricate a bracket which will sit on the leading flange of the shock towers, but I don’t think that this will be strong enough as it may twist under load.

I had thought about making a top hat for the shock tower and bolt the torque tube to that, but the angles are all wrong and the subframe will just collapse.


Back to the drawing board



J.


Sat May 12, 2018 7:04 pm
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Post Re: Just Got Myself A 1995 1.4 Twin Cam K3
Well, after a week from hell at work, the only highlight was that I managed to get a full low mileage MGF rear end complete with engine and gearbox, except for the brake discs and calipers; therefore, that will be fitted in it's entirety when it gets delivered to me in a few weeks.

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I was intending to keep the Metro 1.4 K-series MPi engine and gearbox, but the 1.8 120bhp engine appeals now and as it is all within the new subframe, installation will be relatively easy for me, so all being well, I should have the K3 on the road by August at the latest. :D :mrgreen:

The debate for me now, is do I use the hydragas spheres that I know are good, or do I go for coilovers at the rear, as the front end will still be MGTF dampers with lowered and lower rated springs for the time being!!!!!

Oh, and I got new (to me) MGF VVC seats;

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J.


Fri May 18, 2018 10:14 am
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Post Re: Just Got Myself A 1995 1.4 Twin Cam K3
Yesterday was scorching and I had my enthusiasm back, so I went mental today and modified the F subframe, removed the AC parts that I don’t need, swapped the engine mounts and associated parts for Metro parts and fitted the whole lot to the tub.

I had to remove the water pipes, clutch slave cylinder and mounting as it fouled on the rear bulkhead but it’s in and I’m happy and now need to figure out if I can use the Land Rover Freelander or Rover 25 clutch slave bracket and cylinder, whilst the hoses will be a mishmash of MG and universal bits by the looks of it.

I also managed to fit the rear brake disks, calipers and put the wheels on, then lowered it down to the ride height I’ll set it at once my coil over brackets turn up and will need to figure out how to secure the handbrake cables, as on the MGF, they are fixed to the body bulkhead.

Hopefully over the next week or so, physical health permitting, I will get the stainless steel manifold and down pipe installed, brake hoses and pipes connected, Metro engine loom changed over onto the MGF engine, as it’s an early one and I don’t have the ECU for it AND the loom on it has been chopped sadly.

Other works still to sort will be the fuel pipes, then reinstall fuel tank and do all the water pipes at the front to let me get it running soon.

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J


Mon Jun 25, 2018 7:19 am
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