I will think about the drip catcher before fitting, could well have to cut half of it a way to clear 45 Webber on long manifold, Thanks Ian for the pictures of your rack saddles, that is a well used vice you have there I have made wedge blocks and U bolts as per minitici's sketch, I keep sneaking out with an 1-1/2" hole saw and cutting lightness into my front subframe which is propped conveniently against the wall outside my office, the locals don't understand, probably think I have cracked up this time.
Cheers
John

The vice came from my Grandfather so I've little doubt it's older than me - and it does the job just fine .

Iain

Ahhh the old ones were made to last

The small square section needs cut away.

Ken thanks for that shot of a very nice clean Webber, I would not dare to run here without and air filter, we have what they call fesh fesh on the Dakar, very fine sand like talcum powder, gets in everywhere, so a bigger hole needed rather than add more bits I think plan B is to join the 2 bits of engine cover together as they used to be and park the drip catcher in a dusty corner
Cheers
John

In an area where we suffer from Sand drifts.

I run with a Pipercross foam filter

at least your council cleared it, it would just be left here for you to struggle in, My filters started life as Pipercross, then when the foam degraded with age and heat I made new foam and glues it onto the base plates
John

I cut holes into the front sub-frame to lighten it, unfortunately the rear sub-frame that came with the car looks to be a gonner, it has been used with top and bottom arms loose on one side and the inner pivot holes are elongated, no problem I have the rear sub-frame in the twinny
Anybody have a spare spacer that goes between the cone spring top mount and the chassis, I need to know the thickness so I can make some, every time I look at it I see something more to find or make
John

Anybody out there knows the thickness of the spacer between the subframe top mount above the cone spring and the chassis, I think about 1/4" but have not seen one in about 15 years and don't like to guess an easy job but I have to make them.
Thanks
john

You're right they're 1/4" thick -- made of 2 parts -- a thicker section that is 3/16" that has larger holes to allow the raised sections on the subframe to seat and a 1/16" top plate with smaller holes clearance size of the mounting bolts -- the third central hole allows access for the spring compressor.
Regards,
Steve

Thanks Steve,
another job to do, I loaded the chassis into the back of my pickup after work last night to deliver to the sandblaster this morning
John

I just got my chassis back from the sandblaster and leaning against a tree so a gofor can paint red oxide primer on its underneath, thisafternoon it will be turned over to do T'other side
John

Looking much better now mext is to bond in the boot and buy a a box of pop rivets to attach body to chassis

That is looking very tidy! You make progress so quickly thus you are very annoying

What's the bike lurking back there? is it an Aprilia?

Progress will slow down when I have to find bits that I don't have, I cant carry everything back when I return from the UK, I'm trying not to strip out everything from the twinny donor, so looking for a R-H rack, a R-H upper suspension arm, I have 2 L-H gear lever/selector, I will probably make.
The bike is a Gilera RC600 one of 3 Gilera's I have, I only know of another Gilera in Zimbabwe, more than 20 years old was a barn find covered in straw and chicken sh*t that I bought for spares then changed my mind and rebuilt it
John