Every bolt on this car has lots of copper grease on it when it was put back together and I think he changed every bolt too.
it comes apart nice its just the new engine I have problems with

I have welded the bracket to the metro subframe which I cut from the mgf subframe. hope it's in the right place as I did not take any measurements from the mgf subframe before I cut it off that was not a smart move



I have cut and modified the gearbox buttresses as PEEPS did to his k3 I was looking at making the engine mount like the one used on the Libra and Spyder using the PG1 gearbox mount.
but it was much easier to do it the same way peeps did it with some black paint and you can't tell



I have started to put things back on the subframe

I was looking a the exhaust which came from the 1.8 mgf they look similar to the old one from my car its a bit smaller in diameter than the 1.8
also, the 1.8 has 6 holes for the manifold it would save me a job if I use the old 1.6 exhaust on the new engine



I don't think it will make that much of a difference in the size as it's so short but the manifold of my old engine is a cast and heavy.
and it doesn't look all that good





the 1.8 manifold looks much better but also has 6 bolts



I found a nice 4 bolt manifold on eBay for £10

Hi,
I had a look at my exhaust manifold , well more like the 2 into one piece thats bolted onto the manifold itself.
, new part still with sticker on it

Thought thats not too bad as far as flow etc are concerned, then I looked at the 2 into one part where the o2 sensor is.

To my horror where the two down pipe joined into one before the flex, the round pipes had been crushed to make them D shaped so they would fit together and were welded onto a color that was then welded to the flex.

The way they were crushed ment that the area of the pipe was less than half that at the manifold/cylinder head.

with a little cutting and welding of two fillet plates could be made significantly better.

I have tried the new engine up to see how much I need to modify the tub





the clutch slave cylinder on the PG1 bracket hits the tub and the heater hoses get in the way to with slave cylinder taken of you could get the heater hoses would fit but I would not have a clutch
I have just found that the boot latch hits the cylinder head which looks ok in the photo but the engine is not pushed back yet



I was thinking I can I just move the boot latch to the side?
the GTM handbook states
the standard metro cable is then run from the latch through the bulkhead and down to the lever mounted on top of the H section handbrake bracket.
my lever is on the floor next to the driver's seat right-hand side and it gets tangled up with the seat belt should it be on the handbrake

it's not just me then that started swearing at the car when this problem arose. I don't know whether there is enough room to move it to the side because it would be away from the clam moulding that takes the striker bracket. I will be dumping mine and making a new catch from a bearclaw latch from CBS. Front clam as well. I will let you know if it works!
Peter.

hi thanks, I did not think of doing that
I do have an electronic boot release I was going to use but it still does not fit and if it did not work I would have no way of opening the boot

Hi,
Looking at the clutch bracket problem,

You can mount a different slave cylinder on the same mgf type bracket with the captive nut bit cut off. and additional nuts welded in to mount the new slave to.

standard mgf


This is a delph part for a mazda at £14


so the lugs and pipes are on the side clear of the bulkhead, co cut the bracket down and new captive nuts.

Or there is another bracket for the pg1 gearbox fitted to the freelander, fits almost flat to the gearbox casing, so will give different mounting options and gets the slave and bracket out of the way.

This is the bracket


gets rid of alot more of the original mgf style bracketry.

DONT USE THE FREELANDER SLAVE SET UP ITS Toffee

this shows in use, all the slave is plastic.... not good


this is a mod on the same mounting position look for "sheddist" clutch kit, bit expencive if you can weld


Those are a few ideas to move the bracket. its got to be better than cutting the tub.

Which water outlet elbow have you used on there?? MGF?

Also surprised it hits the catch,

Just a thought, will the bottom engine mount, the one that goes to the subframe to the sump, would that not change the position of the engine, may be move the engine away from the bulkhead?

Great photos

There is a good selection of slave cylinders on the CBS site which might offer some inspiration.

hi I have the mgf water outlet on the engine
and I was surprised to that the boot catch hits the engine





I thought that too but if I move the engine the Differential hits the subframe
it's getting too cold to work on the engine

I'm not totally surprised, My K3 it almost touched with the 1.4 installed. :S

I have not done much more to the engine change.

I have been changing the instrument cluster to an electronic speedo the dashboard looks the same as the one I'm taking out but the plugs are completely different



the wires are the same colour but there are a lot more wires. some will not get used I just have to find out the ones I don't need



but the 5as alarm wire colours are all different the pins are all the same but all the colours of the wires are not and it has a lot more connections which I will not use



On the engine chnge my boot latch hits the cylinder head



it would be nice to see how you did this thanks peter

not much more done to my car still working on the wiring (fitting ECU and relay box a new main wire to run from battery )

Looking at that You appear to have mounted the inertia switch on the front of the rear 'boot'.

My K3 had it mounted there, if You found a large pot hole (You could not avoid) it would intermittently trigger and stop the engine

I ended up mounting it some where more solid.

You look to be making good progress tho'

hi thanks for the advice I did wonder if I would have to move it it's just the wires were that long
I will probably move it the wires just need to be made longer
thanks