Great to meet up with Ken and Minitici at Forrestburn, looking forward to next year and hopping to do it again.
Cheers
John

Sunday was bleed the brakes and clutch time, I thought the Mini clutch has seized as the peddle was solid, bit after jamming a piece of wood against the depressed peddle found it was the NOS slave cylinder with a sticking piston, which was soon sorted,
I have a dual master cylinder brake system with an hydraulic hand brake, the front brakes are fine the hand brake is on with 2 clicks of the lever, but the rear brakes have too much travel when operated with the peddle, I will attempt next time to bleed at the hand brake, to see if that will sort it, or it goes back to the drawing board for a rethink!
Anybody had a dual master cylinder with hydraulic hand brake on here before, thinking should the hand brake cylinder be in series or parallel?
I used the same dual cylinders before but without the hand brake on my twinny mini.
John

In series / inline

Hi Ken,
I thought you would be the 1st reply,
My system is a bit more complicated with separate master cylinders and bias bar on the brake peddle, with the rear supply pipe into the hand brake master cylinder.
The front brakes and hand brake are fine but the rear brake on the peddle is too long and using all the ball swivel in the bias bar
Next weekend plan before the sun is too high I'll bleed it at the hand brake.
John

Sounds like a master / slave cylinder mismatch.

Might have to change the size/diameter of the rear master cylinder.

Bigger master will move more fluid, so less travel, but need greater force to get desired braking force.

It's possible that I have to go up one size on the rear master cylinder, but it worked OK on the twinny mini without hand brake??
Cheers
John

Is there slack in the handbrake set-up that is taking up some of the fluid movement?

If you hold the handbrake on slightly, does it firm up the pedal ?

Hi Ken I tried bleeding last weekend with the hand brake on and off without any better result, hard fora one man band to check if the peddle becomes hard while pulling up the hand brake without seats or anything inside the car, but will try siting on something next weekend before bleeding at the hand brake, even on the peddle the rears are working, its just the ball in the bias bar is cranked over too much, I would like to see the bias bar with very little tilt on the bar.
Also expecting to get by courier a couple of dash #10 fittings from Merlin Motor Sport to make an extension for my oil line connections to the Laminova cooler in its new location
Cheers
John

Trials and tribulations
After much cranking with plugs out and still no oil coming from the block adaptor to the remote filter pipe, I’m facing the possibility I have no option but to remove the engine yet again, I have dribbled oil in through the filter pipe enough to raise the dipstick level by about 25mm, probably needed with all the extra pipe work for remote filter and Laminova oil cooler, but without oil being pumped it’s a big “NoNo” such a shame as it was running fine nearly 20 years ago!
So it will be engine out and clutch cover off to check if the pump drive to the cam is OK, if so then split the engine from the gearbox to check the pickup pipe, the cam is being driven I have felt (carefully) the rockers doing what rockers do though the oil filler cap. 
John

Do you have oil anywhere ? Well apart from the sump.

I would be putting oil into every orifice you can find, pressure release valve, oil pressure sender, remove the banjo bolt from the block and put some in there all while turning the motor backwards either from the crank or stick it in 4th and turn the wheel backwards.
And try to pre-fill the filters/coolers.

And some down the bores to be safe before you start using the starter.

Hi Ken,
Before cranking I put oil down the plug holes into the bores just to wet the pistons and down the remote filter pipe to the adapter plate on the front of block, where the filter would normal be, but the simple answer is no, the only place where there is oil is in the sump, to crank it I hooked up a battery, easier than turning wheels or crank pulley.
I'm at the state of thinking could the pump drive shear off, or the center oil pick up have broken, or come loose standing all those years, and can't think why they should just sitting doing nothing
John

Put oil in where the banjo bolt goes on the block, use a funnel/bit of hose, and then turn the engine BACKWARDS.
You are then priming the pump in reverse,

once done, spin it over again and see what happens.

I'll give it a go, much better than pulling the engine if it works, I remember my old Cox big bore S engine being a bitch to prime the 1st time it was cranked over after being built, that also had a remote filter and an oil cooler in line, but that had the oil filter before the pump, tapped into the 2 cast bosses into the oil gallery on the rear of the block.
John

What Ken said ,

This is what I normally do. I take the pipe off of the oil cooler, at the cooler end and pour in a dribble before cranking, with plugs out. This is my normal routine after winter.

It hasn’t failed me yet.

Apart from knackered thrust bearings
Hope you get it sorted.
john