I had a few options on mine that I wasn't sure were working at all so I went for standalone by fitting one of these

I have started to do some work on the wiring loom I have got an MGF MEMS 3 COMPLETE FULL BODY WIRING LOOM
all I have to do is find out what wires I need to run the engine and all the instruments
this should be fun



two days and a lot of looking at diagram's and I Got it down to this



i have taken the engine loom of the engine (the right photo ) you can see the matching green and gray plug the big ecu plug is on the engine loom and the small ecu plug is on what's left of the mgf loom the plugs for the relay module / Inertia Fuel Cut-Off Switch / Ambient Air Temperature (AAT) Sensor
/ plug for Engine Bay Cooling Fan



all so on the mgf part, there is a plug for rough road sensor

cars without ABS there is a reluctor ring and an ABS sensor fitted to one hub MEMS 3 has a misfire detection facility which is part
of the On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) system. Misfire
detection is disabled when the ECM senses that the
vehicle is on a 'rough road'. The system software
can detect variations in the signal output and disable
misfire detection to prevent incorrect faults being
logged by the ECM.

I hope you are keeping a log of which wires you have left and where they go.
I might need your help next year. I have an MGF VVC which I am going to use as a donor for my K3 rebuild. DIY is delaying progress.

Good luck.

They should all be obvious, they are all different so that you can't get them wrong. (famous last words!!)

I think I have got all the wires labeled up to where they need to go
I now have a mems3 ECU from eBay which Is quite different from the mems2 wiring loom



there is a plan
I counted about 26 wires you need I'm going to use the plug on the metro loom
the k3 kit has a long extension lead which runs down the side of the car It extends the pug from the front to the engine bay at the back



the wires from the mgf are long and will go all the way up to the front of the car from the engine bay
I have found the plug on the net so will do away with the extension lead and only have one plug from engine to metro loom
http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_ESC13F.html



most of the wires you need are in this plug and the rest will be put in a new plug or wired to the main loom as I have the mgf
SPEEDO CLOCK INSTRUMENT CLUSTER.
this will change to one with an electronic speedo not cable driven I also have a speedo corrector module this should let me calibrator the speed as I have different size wheels





(this did not work )

Can't put it off anymore the road tax runs out at the end of the month so it's time to take the engine out.
I have been putting it off the new engine has been taken apart and put back together.



where to start cleaning out the workshop
Are that should take me a month

Good luck. I've been unwell for a few days so no further progress but hopefully should have the cambelt on in the next week or two at the most then I can send you the spring if you still need it.

I was planning to do my swap on the drive as I only have a single garage that only just fits the car. Plan was to roll it back in after every work session. My drive has an apple tree over it that has had a bumper crop this year so in many ways it would be better to wait until all the apples (and the leaves) have gone!

My Mother-in law has a double garage that's even got a pit (my late Father in law built it) and I'm now seriously considering moving everything over there for the swap but wondering if/how to get the engine into my daily driver. If I get it in with the hoist (not sure the tailgate opening is tall enough) then there won't be room for the hoist too so I won't be able to get it out again at the other end!

Anyway, hope yours goes well - keep the pictures coming as even though its a different car they are useful!

What plans do you have for the thermostat? I'm toying with changing to remote/PRT...

Hi hope you get well soon

I was going to do my swap outside too I built a carport but Did not like the idea of living all my tools and equipment outside every night. I say I have a workshop it is just garage with a big shed on the back so going to do my build inside





My car did have a remote/PRT but I was told that it did not work I do not know why it did not work but he removed it.
the cooling works ok on my car apart from the heater is plumbed of the radiator the heater only works when the thermostat for the engine is open and then the heat is always on it needs a shut-off vale something like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/mgf-heater-va ... Sw8d9UvAsM
so I will leave it for now and see

Yes, thanks I still need the spring just let me know how much the postage will be. I will pm you with my address

I'm trying to make sense of that PRT set-up. It might be me being thick (or addled by the cold virus) but it seems to me that there is no route for the cooled water from the radiator to get back to the water pump inlet?

When the stat is closed the water will come out of the head outlet, flow as far as the closed stat and then come back up the sharp angle into the bypass and go back to the water pump (via the presumably removed original stat location). Presumably nothing can flow towards the radiator via the tee before the stat because the stat is shut thus its a closed circuit.



When the stat opens the hot water will tend to take the path of least resistance which is presumably straight on through the PRT body and head off towards the rad. If it does this it will come back to that tee piece near the head outlet and meet hot water coming the other way?



Alternatively, if it would rather flow via the tee piece towards the rad (maybe due to the stat restricting the flow making the other direction seem preferable, then the cooled water coming back from the rad would pass over the stat and make it close again?

Shouldn't the return flow go back to the water pump, not back to the stat? I'm confused because I've seen pics of other installations that look like this and I can't see how they work.

what you say sounds right how dose it work
I do not no how it works but did find some web pages

http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/

http://www.mgfregister.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3677

right the car is in and ready all I have to do is change the engine this won't take long

Love the photos, great news that you have "Started".

Please take lots of photos as I am a little behind you. I have a running K3 and a 160 engine, that needs head gasket and a few bits for the conversion.

it doesn't look like I have done much but
I have got lots of cables and pipes
disconnected

the engine is out that's the easy part done now all I have to do is get the new engine to fit



I can now see why you need to chop some of the tub away for clearance.

Is the only reason that you would need to cut the bulkhead out because you need the clearance for the clutch slave cylinder??

Isn't the engine is the same size physically?

If its the Slave thats causing the problem there is a modified bracket you can get that changes the slave and rotates it so it doesn't stick out towards the bulkhead, the slave is mounted almost flush with the gearbox.

http://content.yudu.com/Library/A2l9vy/Sheddiststyleclutchk/resources/index.htm?referrerUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.darkicedesigns.com%2Fen%2Ftransmission-upgrades%2F85--sheddist-style-clutch-hydraulics-kit-mg-rover-45-zs.html

Click on the bottom right of the instruction page look at page 12 shows the bracket, this is mounted to a PG1 gearbox

If thats the reason the bulkhead is cut out, as you also need to mod the fuel tank if the bulkhead is cut.
Personally I would look at a mod for the slave.