Looks great, love the pictures, like alot of people I am looking into the possibility of 1.8vvc ?160 into the k3.
saw the bits on the engine/ gearbox mount.
This is the mgf subframe showing the engine and gearbox mounts

The engine and gearbox buttresses


With the gearbox mount


Am I right to understand that the engine mount(alloy cast) will hit the tub??

This is the rover metro subframe showing the engine/ gearbox mounts and buttresses



You have shown modified gearbox buttresses



what do you need to do for the engine mount insted of the alloy one? The metro one

See picture of comparison between the MGF lovely mount arrangement which hits the tub and the original Metro bobbin type mount. Unfortunately this is the only one that fits but the good news is that it bolts off the subframe and fits straight on to the MGF subframe. You will also need to swap the rubber bobbin off the metro engine on to the MGF engine.
And while we are on the subject if you retain the PG1 gearbox and clutch you will need to chop some of the tub away for clearance. Pictures available.

Thanks thats great.
So the only mod is on the gearbox buttress where it needs thinning.and replating.

so the engine side needs the rover metro bobin mount and the gearbox side will be good with the mgf/tf mount.

Thanks for the photos, how much does the tub need off for the clutch slave?? can it not be taken off the slave cylinder??

There was two problems, the clutch slave cylinder on the PG1 bracket and also the cylinder head water outlet hoses. I cut out quite a lump to clear both which rendered the fuel tank space compromised so I made another tank to fit behind the seats. See before and after shots.
Peter.

I am going to keep my metro subframe as it's in better condition.
and the metro one has the mgf handbrakes on it.
all I can see is that I would need to weld the bracket at the bottom of the subframe which stops the engine from tilting this sounds like this would be ok.



I don't know if I can use the driveshaft from the metro I might have to use the mgf ones and change the hub too I will see

I have just looked at a spare metro subframe and an mgf subframe. Both are the front ones and are the same. They are only missing the steady bracket and the support bar for the jacking point. That being the case by welding the steady bracket on it should be fine. If you need another subframe you are welcome to one of these.
Peter.

[quote="catsam"
I don't know if i can use the drive shaft from the metro I might have to use the mgf ones and change the hub too I will see[/quote]

Mu understanding is the hubs are the same on rover metro/100 and MGF/TF so the hub end of the drive shafts are the same for both so shouldn't have to change the hubs. If you are using an r65 box you'll need the metro driveshafts, if using the PG1 you'll need MGF driveshafts. I think this is 'cos the diff is in a different place relative to the centre of the car so the driveshafts are more unequal length on one or other (not sure which). The diff ends may also be different but not sure but either way, PG1 needs MGF shafts and R65 needs metro shafts but hubs the same.

hi thanks for the replies I think I will use my metro subframe as it's all painted with new parts
and I'm going to use a pg1 box so needs MGF shafts but it's a long way of form me needing them

What a rats nest the 1.8vvc is, I was just getting my head around the bits and pieces subframes,mounts, gearchange etc.

New petrol tank...... Custom built no doubt...lol.

do you know if a lotus elese would fit?

Haha, of course its custom made, its the law! I made it to fit on the shelf behind the seats, see pic. The dimensions are 800mm long x 660mm high and 150 to 180mm tapering from bottom to top. It looks as if the Elise tank may well fit and if so i will be Miffed.
Peter

so this is yours
800mm long x 660mm high and 150 to 180mm tapering from bottom to top
32" long x 27"high 6" to 7 1/2" tapering

in inches as the elese tank is in inches.

Your before you cut the bulkhead picture above , would you say the engine was in the correct position??

Just no clearance for the hose and slave cylinder?

Did you still modify the gearbox buttress as described above?

In the before picture the engine was mounted on the modified gearbox buttress but if you zoom in to the bottom left of the picture you will see that the complete subframe was about 30mm away from final position. Notice the 15mm spacer on the bolt that goes through the mounting. These were left on permanently.
Peter.

I see what you mean.
I was thinking about some alternitves:

Mod the clutch slave mount so it doesnt stick out towards the bulkhead, may be rotate the slave 90 degrees and mod the bracket.

Change the water outlet to an elbow something like the rover 800 one or landrovers outlet , so it elbows immediately out of the head


The other idea I had was to lean the engine a little away from the bulkhead, this could be done by using an adjustable bottop support

on my car, the water hose is above the bulkhead and the hose runs along with it I would think that this would be the same with the 1.8vvc engine when it's in the car
I like the idea of changing the clutch slave mount. if you could get this to fit you would then not have to cut the bulkhead but this sounds like it is to easy.
this is going to be fun to find out one day