Fitted Sanzomats MGF speedo cable, I had to recut the thread on the little cast aluminium mounting block from 3/4" tread to M18 x1.5 for the cable nut to fit
Thanks Sanzo
John

Water hoses and header tank in position

Remote oil filter in position, still have a Laminova oil to water heat exchanger and more fittings to collect on my next UK visit to complete the job

Thanks to my Muslin brothers having 2 days holiday for the end of Ramadan I made a hydraulic hand braked using my ex Jedi clutch master cylinder, (it now has a cable operated clutch)
John

A hydraulic handbrake, that is a nice idea for the future!
Nice to work on the car with the loose rear end, but how is the rear end fixed?

Harold

I had no other option, no handbrake or Hydraulic as I'm using the same Toyota calipers front and rear
John

John,
Are you using separate/additional rear calipers for the hydraulic handbrake?

I ask this as you have used an integral reservoir master cylinder rather than using a remote type.

Hydraulic handbrakes normally feed through a remote type master cylinder with the main rear brake line as the feed to the cylinder and the output going to the rear calipers.

Doug.

Cheers Doug, you just spoiled my day luckily I do have a remote cylinder that could be plumbed inline.
Thanks for making me think a bit more
John

Don't worry John - guess who else made this basic error

We all have our moments, engage brain before taking action and I was feeling quite pleased about my hand brake solution
John

Did anybody convert the BL rod change to cable operation and what bits were used?
John

Certainly had the conversation about doing it on the turbo Cox, I think it would be very beneficial.

Neil

I can't get away with cables in Historic racing so I have designed a better version of the Heerey/Coupe original using these rather marvellous products.
http://www.igus.co.uk/wpck/2507/igubal_ ... ?C=GB&L=en
Also incorporating some UJ's so it is a bit more adjustable, the weak point is always the "pendulum" bit that goes under the gearbox!
i post some drawing when I've worked it all out!

I made a new gear lever end which is very free moving that is pictured in my earlier posts, but find the rod into the gear box is quite stiff with its new seals, not a nice change at all
John

Hi Grizz,
I'm not sure when the rod change box was introduced, but would think for (pre 72??) historic racing you would be limited to the old remote change, which I had cut into 2 pieces in my old Cox.
John